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Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total, 0/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on May 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This is the first crack around the corner from the Green Slab. Although short, it is very steep and has some fun, sporty moves.

Jam and edge up the angling crack system until it is possible to traverse around to the anchors for Green Slab, or set up an anchor and escape to the right.

Protection

A few wires and cams.

Photos

Fun lead, too bad it is so short. I did not use any wires but stopped at the bolts for Green Slab. Pretty strenuous but you can have gear anywhere you want it. Aug 13, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is a fun route but quite strenuous. It is a fun TR after Green Slab. It would be quite a bit more difficult for me to lead than Green Slab due to the pumpy nature. Mar 6, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
The wires are for the anchor, have hand sized cams for the climb, with a size larger for the bottom, and a few smaller for the middle. It's also a great toprope from the Green Slab anchors. Apr 18, 2004