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Big, Big, Monkey Man
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.5 from 38
votes
Routes in River Wall II
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Aquadarius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Big, Big Gunky Man Direct (BBGMD) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hero to Zero aka H2O S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lost Horizons T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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New Horizon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Papadarius S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Paternity Leave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pimpa la Bimpa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pocket Hercules T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reservoir Dogs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Social Dispensing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Technicolor Nightmare TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 40.229, -105.34538 |
| FA: | Paul Piana, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 6,647 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Apr 27, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a great pumpfest just left of Redneck Hero. It probably deserves a full three stars, but I gave it only two because the stone at the very top is a bit suspect - not as good as Redneck. However, as long as the holds stay put, it is a killer line.
To do this line, cross the creek on the upstream side of the cliff. Once you get to the wall, follow little ledges out as far right as you can go - this is the start of Pocket Hercules. Climb Pocket Hercules for 30 feet or so (requires gear) until you reach the first bolt.
The route then trends right up the overhanging wall, involving big reaches to mostly good holds.
It is totally fun - a solid letter grade harder than Redneck and every bit as cool.
Protection
You place gear for about 30 feet, then you clip 5 bolts to the anchors. The specific gear recommended is: a couple of #1.5 Friends, a couple of small nuts, and maybe a large stopper.
Per ANGUS WIESSNER: the first two pieces are fixed nuts, then a #0.5 Camalot, fixed nut, a stuck #0.75 Camalot, a fixed quickdraw, 5 bolts (clip the 2nd with a regular length sling), and a 2 bolt anchor. Consider using extension slings on all gear placement. It is best to clean this on toprope or use the fixed/cleaning draw.
12 Comments