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Routes in River Wall II

Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
New Horizon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Hercules T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Paul Piana, 1985
Page Views: 3,142 total, 17/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This is a great pumpfest just left of Redneck Hero. It probably deserves a full three stars, but I gave it only two because the stone at the very top is a bit suspect - not as good as Redneck. However, as long as the holds stay put, it is a killer line.

To do this line, cross the creek on the upstream side of the cliff. Once you get to the wall, follow little ledges out as far right as you can go - this is the start of Pocket Hercules. Climb Pocket Hercules for 30 feet or so (requires gear) until you reach the first bolt.

The route then trends right up the overhanging wall, involving big reaches to mostly good holds.

It is totally fun - a solid letter grade harder than Redneck and every bit as cool.

The second bolt has a very rusty hanger on it - if anyone reading this does this line, take a new hanger with you and post an update here when it is replaced.

Protection

You place gear for about 30 feet, then you clip 5 bolts to the anchors. The specific gear recommended is: a couple of #1.5 Friends, a couple of small nuts, and maybe a large stopper.

Photos

Chris Kalman  
 
Thanks for replacing the bolts on this, fellas. I honestly think this is better than Redneck! Super good climbing. Pretty friendly at 5.12b. And the questionable integrity of the top jug isn't that big a deal. If it rips off, there are other holds that wouldn't change the grade. Oct 22, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
Thanks to Angus & Greg for replacing the old 3/8" diameter bolts placed in 1985 on this route. This is one of the best overhanging 5.12b routes on the Front Range. Great pump & friendly holds. It was an old favorite of mine that I climbed in 1987 & last repeated in November 1990.

First ascent: Paul Piana in 1985 This route was one of a new generation of rappel bolted climbs in the 1980s. 1985 saw the first ascents several rappel bolted climbs including Paris Girls in Eldo (5.13a R/X), Razor Hein Stick (.12c) in Boulder Canyon, Alex In Wonderland (5.11c/d) on the Old Stage Wall, & Big, Big Monkey Man. These routes aren't sport climbs, but they all have that have that similarity to some degree. Once you reach the 1st bolt on Big, Big Monkey Man, it is a sport climb from there to the finish. Perfect gear up Pocket Hercules to start.

To start the route, we would always set up a semi-hanging belay, with stoppers, on the small ledge at the base of Pocket Hercules. Lap coil the rope, & hang it from the anchor to keep it out of the river. Jun 27, 2017
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
This route now sports 5 brand new Petzl, stainless steel, glue-in bolts. Greg German with my help removed all the old bolts and using the same holes for the new bolts. Can't wait to get on this climb once the white water at the base is gone! Jun 17, 2017
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
The 5 lead bolts have been replaced as of 6/17/2017 with glue-in bolts.
They were relics:
Jun 17, 2017
This is a super cool route, in my opinion every bit as good as Redneck Hero. The crack climbing is not too difficult, then you get a sweet transition onto the bolted face and pumpy climbing above. Be warned that the bolts and hangers are in need of replacement - I did not feel too good about falling on them. Dec 7, 2015