Type: Trad
FA: Paul Piana, 1985
Page Views: 3,747 total · 18/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 27, 2002 with improvements by Justin S
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is a great pumpfest just left of Redneck Hero. It probably deserves a full three stars, but I gave it only two because the stone at the very top is a bit suspect - not as good as Redneck. However, as long as the holds stay put, it is a killer line.

To do this line, cross the creek on the upstream side of the cliff. Once you get to the wall, follow little ledges out as far right as you can go - this is the start of Pocket Hercules. Climb Pocket Hercules for 30 feet or so (requires gear) until you reach the first bolt.

The route then trends right up the overhanging wall, involving big reaches to mostly good holds.

It is totally fun - a solid letter grade harder than Redneck and every bit as cool.

Protection

You place gear for about 30 feet, then you clip 5 bolts to the anchors. The specific gear recommended is: a couple of #1.5 Friends, a couple of small nuts, and maybe a large stopper.

Per ANGUS WIESSNER: the first two pieces are fixed nuts, then a #0.5 Camalot, fixed nut, a stuck #0.75 Camalot, a fixed quickdraw, 5 bolts (clip the 2nd with a regular length sling), and a 2 bolt anchor. Consider using extension slings on all gear placement. It is best to clean this on toprope or use the fixed/cleaning draw.

Photos

This is a super cool route, in my opinion every bit as good as Redneck Hero. The crack climbing is not too difficult, then you get a sweet transition onto the bolted face and pumpy climbing above. Be warned that the bolts and hangers are in need of replacement - I did not feel too good about falling on them. Dec 7, 2015
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
The 5 lead bolts have been replaced as of 6/17/2017 with glue-in bolts.
They were relics:
Jun 17, 2017
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
This route now sports 5 brand new Petzl, stainless steel, glue-in bolts. Greg German with my help removed all the old bolts and using the same holes for the new bolts. Can't wait to get on this climb once the white water at the base is gone! Jun 17, 2017
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Thanks to Angus & Greg for replacing the old 3/8" diameter bolts placed in 1985 on this route. This is one of the best overhanging 5.12b routes on the Front Range. Great pump & friendly holds. It was an old favorite of mine that I climbed in 1987 & last repeated in November 1990.

First ascent: Paul Piana in 1985 This route was one of a new generation of rappel bolted climbs in the 1980s. 1985 saw the first ascents several rappel bolted climbs including Paris Girls in Eldo (5.13a R/X), Razor Hein Stick (.12c) in Boulder Canyon, Alex In Wonderland (5.11c/d) on the Old Stage Wall, & Big, Big Monkey Man. These routes aren't sport climbs, but they all have that have that similarity to some degree. Once you reach the 1st bolt on Big, Big Monkey Man, it is a sport climb from there to the finish. Perfect gear up Pocket Hercules to start.

To start the route, we would always set up a semi-hanging belay, with stoppers, on the small ledge at the base of Pocket Hercules. Lap coil the rope, & hang it from the anchor to keep it out of the river. Jun 27, 2017
Chris Kalman  
 
Thanks for replacing the bolts on this, fellas. I honestly think this is better than Redneck! Super good climbing. Pretty friendly at 5.12b. And the questionable integrity of the top jug isn't that big a deal. If it rips off, there are other holds that wouldn't change the grade. Oct 22, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
 
Feels pretty solid at 5.12b given that you climb some awkward business for 35' and then launch into big, powerful moves. Nevertheless, it's a great lead, it is a great route, and the rock seems even better than that of Redneck Hero. Thanks for updating the bolts. A long draw on the 2nd bolt helps alleviate any rope drag issues. Oct 3, 2018
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
The one fixed draw on this route is for cleaning purposes only. Please don’t add any more, thanks. Also, the second bolt is meant to have a regular length sling if you want your rope to run straight. Dec 19, 2018