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Routes in River Wall II

Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
New Horizon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Hercules T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Pat Adams
Page Views: 5,836 total, 30/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This superb power route climbs the third route from the left side of the crag. Reach the base by rock hopping across the river just below the Buttonrock Resevoir spillway. The furtherst left two lines are New Horizon and Lost Horizon, a bolted arete and an insane finger crack, respectively.

The next line, BFAP, climbs the right side of this constant angle overhanging section of stone on unrelenting powerful slopers and edges. One leaves the security of the initial ramp and right corner launching onto the overhanging face after clipping the first two bolts. Fire immediately into the powerful crux, a big move to a small incut. One amazingly consistent move after another bring one to the top. Stellar.

Protection

Six bolts. The next to last had fixed biner, and the last was coldshut. Also, there is webbing on blocks above for rapping.

Per 106973956 2 bolts were added to the start with the permission of the FA.

Photos

Seth Finkelstein
Denver, CO
 
Seth Finkelstein   Denver, CO
 
Bolt addition is a great upgrade to a great route. Thanks, Jon. The traditional gear leading up the main face was quite marginal and in suspect rock. Cleaned off a large block on the 'ledge', but exercise caution as the rock below the face is all somewhat suspect. Fun route! Mar 2, 2017
Jon Linhart
Boulder, Colorado
Jon Linhart   Boulder, Colorado
Added 2 bolts to the start of this today with permission from the first ascentionist. The intro rock is exfoliating, and the gear is sparse and in poor rock, but now the route is much more enjoyable. Jan 29, 2017
Super route! Four long slashes allow passage up a face that would otherwise be blank. Prospective suitors should note that it's a bit awkward getting up to the first bolt, and stick clipping from the ledge is not a bad idea. Nov 7, 2015
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.13a/b
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.13a/b
Short but sweet. Seemed easier than Old Yellar.
Also, the fixed biner is gone, and there is a single chain anchor in addition to the closed coldshut. May 8, 2012