All Locations > Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > North Fork of the… > Longmont Reservoi… > River Wall II
Avg: 3.2 from 24 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen, 1985|
|Page Views:||4,006 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
CLOSED for 2014 Details
Due to floods, this area is unfortunately closed.
DescriptionNeurosurgeon climbs the stellar fingercrack on the far right side of the 'central' River Wall (after the bouldering approach in from right), just right of the steep 'slab' Le Diamant E'ternal. The only reason this climb doesn't receive three stars in my book is the scary finishing options. One must either climb difficult to protect direct 5.11 PG/R finish or move right around the arete as the crack fades in and out and finish on loose scary 5.9 R climbing. The lower portion of the climb, the meat of it, is beautiful and can be worth the scare above, or better yet TR the line.
Start with stellar fingerlocks. Just before the roof the crack widens to off-fingers and thin hands (cruxy). Polish off the roof above and climb several body lengths of pumpy crack. Good footwork here will make all the difference. On the lead one must choose here as the crack fades in and out to climb right to the arete and up (5.9 R) or directly up the 5.11 (PG/R) finish. A TR will follow the 5.11 finish.