Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen, 1985
Page Views: 4,232 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

Neurosurgeon climbs the stellar fingercrack on the far right side of the 'central' River Wall (after the bouldering approach in from right), just right of the steep 'slab' Le Diamant E'ternal. The only reason this climb doesn't receive three stars in my book is the scary finishing options. One must either climb difficult to protect direct 5.11 PG/R finish or move right around the arete as the crack fades in and out and finish on loose scary 5.9 R climbing. The lower portion of the climb, the meat of it, is beautiful and can be worth the scare above, or better yet TR the line.

Start with stellar fingerlocks. Just before the roof the crack widens to off-fingers and thin hands (cruxy). Polish off the roof above and climb several body lengths of pumpy crack. Good footwork here will make all the difference. On the lead one must choose here as the crack fades in and out to climb right to the arete and up (5.9 R) or directly up the 5.11 (PG/R) finish. A TR will follow the 5.11 finish.

Protection

A rack heavy on small medium gear up to 2.5 inches, and a double sets of TCUs or Aliens are useful. You can use the anchor to the left atop of Le Diamant E'ternal (LDE). It is possible to toprope via these anchors with some well-placed directional gear.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Be careful if you lead this one. One climber I know nearly paid the ultimate price for this climb. Belay diligently, place good pro, & climb carefully. You want to gain from the experiences of others. Apr 5, 2002
Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
Mark Wilford discovered this crag in the mid-eighties when Jeff Lowe's company, Latok, was located downstream in Lyons. Four of us (Jeff, Mark, Steve Mammen, and I) went up one afternoon to climb here, and we all epic'd. Mark and Steve took the thin crack line of what is now called Pocket Hercules, so Jeff and I got the Neurosurgeon line. I got the lead and put the line up to just over the roof where I pumped out and fell. We were climbing under the "3 strikes" rule, so after a couple more falls, I lowered off and Jeff got the lead. He pulled through the roof and was in the rest stance above when we watched Mark and Steve have the most hilarious epic I've ever witnessed over on what was to become Pocket Hercules. We were laughing so hard and Mark was so wet, we all bagged it and went into town for beers.

The next day I told Piana about the epic, the crag, and the lines, and by the time we went back, he had bagged the FAs on both lines.

To read the epic, go to the Pocket Hercules comments. Malcolm Apr 16, 2003
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Such an amazing line! One of the best 12a's in Colorado! Mar 30, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Nice story and historical contribution, Malcolm. Jan 8, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a R
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a R
According to a old Mountain magazine, Mark Wilford led the first ascent of this route calling it 5.12. My understanding is that he did the 5.9 indirect finish (that traverses right where the crack ends & climbs face on the right side of the arete). Paul Piana was the first to lead the climb with its scary direct finish up the face. Paul told me this in a conversation, this is scary 5.11 R/X face climbing with very little pro. It is not PG/R.

I climbed the route numerous times between 1986 & 1992. I have always done the indirect 5.9 R finish, often with double ropes. Having two ropes helps because there is a lot of rope drag once you turn the arete. The finish is 5.9 & easier with a few places for good pro. The indirect finish is what detracts from this climb, but don't let it scare you. If you can lead the beautiful, .12a, thin crack & make the 5.11 traverse to the arete, the finish is casual & has much more good pro than the 5.11 direct finish. I have only top-roped the 5.11 R/X direct finish. It seemed pretty hard, & I saw very little places for pro. Jun 27, 2017