Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Jack Mileski, Jeff Gruenberg, ~1987
Page Views: 3,400 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

An interesting line that escapes from the pedestal jutting out of the river in the middle of River Wall. Reach the pedestal by rock hopping across the river (impossible in spring/summer), access the right side of River Wall and boulder to the pedestal (also tricky in spring) or rappel from the top. Note: place draws on one side of rope while rappeling so the rope doesn't fall into the drink. Belay off the pedestal anchor bolt and either place protection or run it out to the first bolt. After the first bolt, insecure climbing reaches a layback and undercling flake. Tricky route finding above leads to 15 foot easy run-out terrain to the top - a protectable crack is slightly right of the last bolt. A solid, and fun thinking man's route.

Protection

One bolt anchor on pedastal. Small nut or 0.5 tricam protects mantel that reaches 1st bolt. Five bolts to two bolt anchor atop. Somewhat runnout, but clean falls. Long slings (4+ feet) suggestable for setting up a toprope off the bolts which are back from the top of the cliff.

Photos

Umph!
  5.11
Umph!  
  5.11
This is a great sport climb that is in fact tricky after the underclings. . . I traversed a bit right toward the crack and placed a small alien to keep from the 10+ RO. The second time I just ran it out. It is a thought-provoking line and feels a bit desperate for a move or two - though a fall wouldn't hurt ya too much I s'pose. 11a. Oct 13, 2005
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
My favorite mid-Summer climbing area. The spray from the waterfall, the crystal clear water, world class trail-running, fly fishing and insane undeveloped bouldering all with an icy cold dip at the end of the day. This whole place is a blast! Apr 16, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Well Cale lead first using a nice, yellow ultralite to protect the Mantle. Then cog to the runout on the third bolt and didn't feel right. I lead to the R.O. and placed a nice fitting #1 C-4, and continued to the third and forth bolts, now small cams and possible another #1 would help protect the rest of the route, or one could venture on out on Livewire. Jul 27, 2009
The flake like feature at the start flexes noticeably. I doubt very much it would hold a cam if tested. Oct 17, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11b
This is an engaging mixed route with great sequences, technical footwork, and decent pro where you need it. The bolting is rather peculiar, but with supplemental gear, this route can be well-protected. I placed a #3 Camalot after the first bolt which helped reduce the run-out between the bolts, but folks stronger than I would surely be all right here. Above the 3rd bolt, there are a few possibilities for sequences - I'll let you decipher these. All in all, a good route at a great crag. Apr 13, 2016
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Jack Mileski, Jeff Gruenberg, 1987-ish. All from NJ. That should explain a lot. Nov 2, 2016