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Routes in River Wall II

Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
New Horizon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Hercules T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Jack Mileski, Jeff Gruenberg, ~1987
Page Views: 3,026 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

An interesting line that escapes from the pedestal jutting out of the river in the middle of River Wall. Reach the pedestal by rock hopping across the river (impossible in spring/summer), access the right side of River Wall and boulder to the pedestal (also tricky in spring) or rappel from the top. Note: place draws on one side of rope while rappeling so the rope doesn't fall into the drink. Belay off the pedestal anchor bolt and either place protection or run it out to the first bolt. After the first bolt, insecure climbing reaches a layback and undercling flake. Tricky route finding above leads to 15 foot easy run-out terrain to the top - a protectable crack is slightly right of the last bolt. A solid, and fun thinking man's route.

Protection

One bolt anchor on pedastal. Small nut or 0.5 tricam protects mantel that reaches 1st bolt. Five bolts to two bolt anchor atop. Somewhat runnout, but clean falls. Long slings (4+ feet) suggestable for setting up a toprope off the bolts which are back from the top of the cliff.

Photos

FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Jack Mileski, Jeff Gruenberg, 1987-ish. All from NJ. That should explain a lot. Nov 2, 2016
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b
This is an engaging mixed route with great sequences, technical footwork, and decent pro where you need it. The bolting is rather peculiar, but with supplemental gear, this route can be well-protected. I placed a #3 Camalot after the first bolt which helped reduce the run-out between the bolts, but folks stronger than I would surely be all right here. Above the 3rd bolt, there are a few possibilities for sequences - I'll let you decipher these. All in all, a good route at a great crag. Apr 13, 2016
The flake like feature at the start flexes noticeably. I doubt very much it would hold a cam if tested. Oct 17, 2015
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Well Cale lead first using a nice, yellow ultralite to protect the Mantle. Then cog to the runout on the third bolt and didn't feel right. I lead to the R.O. and placed a nice fitting #1 C-4, and continued to the third and forth bolts, now small cams and possible another #1 would help protect the rest of the route, or one could venture on out on Livewire. Jul 27, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
My favorite mid-Summer climbing area. The spray from the waterfall, the crystal clear water, world class trail-running, fly fishing and insane undeveloped bouldering all with an icy cold dip at the end of the day. This whole place is a blast! Apr 16, 2009
Umph!
  5.11
Umph!  
  5.11
This is a great sport climb that is in fact tricky after the underclings. . . I traversed a bit right toward the crack and placed a small alien to keep from the 10+ RO. The second time I just ran it out. It is a thought-provoking line and feels a bit desperate for a move or two - though a fall wouldn't hurt ya too much I s'pose. 11a. Oct 13, 2005