Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Andrea Azoff (Jack Mileski, Jeff Gruenberg, ~1987)
Page Views: 4,476 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

This is an interesting line that escapes from the pedestal jutting out of the river in the middle of River Wall. Reach the pedestal by rock hopping across the river (impossible in spring/summer), access the right side of River Wall, and boulder to the pedestal (also tricky in spring) or rappel from the top. Note: place draws on one side of rope while rappeling, so the rope doesn't fall into the drink. Belay off the pedestal anchor bolt, and either place protection or run it out to the first bolt. After the first bolt, reach a layback and undercling flake. From there, technical climbing and tricky route finding will get you to the top.  Alcatraz is a solid and fun thinking man's route.

Protection

There is a one bolt anchor on pedestal. A small nut or 0.5 tricam protects mantel that reaches 1st bolt. Six slightly space bolts protect this wandering line. There is a two bolt ancho atop with chains and rings.

Photos