Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Wright, Montagu, Tarrant, ABS, June 2001
Page Views: 2,641 total · 12/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Broken Arrow takes the steep, yellow plate left of the unnamed wide crack on the West face of Scout Rock. The Arrow splits the face on the diagonal with a horizontal breaking line at 40 feet. Easy moves lead to a small lip and a difficult sequence stepping up onto the face. Very thin smears with largely good hands kick up several technical cruxes. The climbing is intricate, elegant, technical and not any where near as hard as it might appear. There is a final 5.11c move just below the anchor, so save a little juice for it. The only creepy move comes in the middle where things get a bit committing, otherwise the line is well sewn up. Three stars for the great climbing moves, improbable footwork, superb stone, and the striking features of the line.

Protection

QDs only. This 70 foot routes needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

I don't know what is going on with all of these self rightous SSV climbers. I did Broken Arrow this weekend (8/19) and I thought it was one of the most elegant one pitch climbs I have ever done. - Brian Walsh Aug 20, 2001
Cale Farnham  
 
Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil and Erin. Killer line thought there was two cruxes one right before the shallow seam and right at the roof making the move to the nice left jug a couple feet above the last bolt! Definitely a must do line!! Aug 14, 2009
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Pretty good route. A couple bolts are in awkward spots on the upper part, which is a little unfortunate. It works out ok, but would definitely favor a redpoint effort versus an onsight effort, which I kind of don't agree with. The onsight effort requires going one or two moves past the best stances to be able to clip. It would definitely be substantially easier with prehung draws. Nov 2, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is. Mar 22, 2012
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Bottom half is about as contrived as it gets... but the top half is pretty cool and follows a nice line. Oct 6, 2018