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Routes in Scout Rock

Ambush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Brothers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Arrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
But for a Silver Bullet ... T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Comanche Warrior S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered to Blood Brothers S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dead Raccoon Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A3
Exit Stage Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Funhouse Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
General Cluster's Last Stance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hunting Party S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
In a Pinch aka Genie T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
KeeMoSabe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaning Aid Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Little Bear S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living the Dream T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lone Ranger, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Love, Honor, and Belay T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rawhide S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 166 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scout Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sneak Attack S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tom Thumb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tonto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Triple Mantle, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Roof Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
War Path S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Wright, Montagu, Tarrant, ABS, June 2001
Page Views: 2,488 total, 12/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Broken Arrow takes the steep, yellow plate left of the unnamed wide crack on the West face of Scout Rock. The Arrow splits the face on the diagonal with a horizontal breaking line at 40 feet. Easy moves lead to a small lip and a difficult sequence stepping up onto the face. Very thin smears with largely good hands kick up several technical cruxes. The climbing is intricate, elegant, technical and not any where near as hard as it might appear. There is a final 5.11c move just below the anchor, so save a little juice for it. The only creepy move comes in the middle where things get a bit committing, otherwise the line is well sewn up. Three stars for the great climbing moves, improbable footwork, superb stone, and the striking features of the line.

Protection

QDs only. This 70 foot routes needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is. Mar 22, 2012
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Pretty good route. A couple bolts are in awkward spots on the upper part, which is a little unfortunate. It works out ok, but would definitely favor a redpoint effort versus an onsight effort, which I kind of don't agree with. The onsight effort requires going one or two moves past the best stances to be able to clip. It would definitely be substantially easier with prehung draws. Nov 2, 2009
Cale Farnham  
 
Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil and Erin. Killer line thought there was two cruxes one right before the shallow seam and right at the roof making the move to the nice left jug a couple feet above the last bolt! Definitely a must do line!! Aug 14, 2009
I don't know what is going on with all of these self rightous SSV climbers. I did Broken Arrow this weekend (8/19) and I thought it was one of the most elegant one pitch climbs I have ever done. - Brian Walsh Aug 20, 2001