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Routes in Scout Rock

Ambush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Brothers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Arrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
But for a Silver Bullet ... T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Comanche Warrior S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered to Blood Brothers S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dead Raccoon Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A3
Exit Stage Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Funhouse Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
General Cluster's Last Stance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hunting Party S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
In a Pinch aka Genie T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
KeeMoSabe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaning Aid Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Little Bear S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living the Dream T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lone Ranger, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Love, Honor, and Belay T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rawhide S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 166 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scout Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sneak Attack S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tom Thumb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tonto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Triple Mantle, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Roof Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
War Path S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Richard Wright, ABS, Nevada Montagu, May 2001
Page Views: 287 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Chase a line of bolts to the right of KeeMoSabe. The crux is a bear-hug between bolts 4 and 5. The slab above shares a single edge with KeeMoSabe and is either very thin or dodged by doing KeeMoSabe instead. The rock to start is a tad friable so stay on your feet and tread lightly. Little Bear is easily top roped by doing KeeMoSabe.

Protection

QD only. This 70 ft route needs about 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. It shares an anchor with KeeMoSabe.

Photos

slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Pretty good route on interesting rock. It would be better if the bolt that protects the crux was a bit lower and to the right. Iit would be easier to clip, and it would protect the right hand option better, which is more natural and more probable for shorter climbers. As it is, coming off the right hand option could result in swinging into the flake. Also, the hidden bolt way off to the left in the middle of the crux seemed weird. Nov 2, 2009
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Short guy beta....On the lower crux I get the bear hug, but instead of moving my feet to the left, I step my left foot on a small edge just above (and left of) the pegmatite, and get my right on a diagonaling edge high to the right. Pushing off that right foot I kind of lieback off the right crack and can reach the weird jug next to the bolt. I clip it from there and mantle past.

The upper crux is hard since if you can't reach the vertical edge. I basically hopped up into it. Yuk. That ledge below me makes me nervous. Aug 20, 2003
Seems like there may be two options at the lower crux.

I keep getting drawn right, layback to the top of the crack, feet up high, then reeeeech to the bucket and mantle, then if find myself on the ledge and I clip the bolt as I walk by.

Its the walking by that bolt that makes me think I should have somehow climbed up to the left and reeeeeeeeeeeched (somehow) the hold near that bolt. Is it done this way too?

The upper crux is very cool. Thin hands, very little in the way of feet, but somehow they stick. Jul 30, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
I would like to thank Nate for his comments. Little Bear looked like an interesting problem to me, and one that appeared to lack good natural pro. My comment to the anonymous coward who will not stand face to face with me is simply to lead it on natural gear. Let us know how you did it. Aug 20, 2001
Just a comment on the Anonymous words about "route setters". This web page and comment section is not meant to be derogatory in any way. You can express your feelings about bolting, but do do in a civil manner. There are plenty of roadside crags throughout the country with many bolts on it. Some may argue that there are too many, but it is entirely up to the FA party to decide. If they feel like placing a comfy bolt spacing of four feet, more power to them, it is their dollar. Wisdom in the choice of placing bolts should be used of course, but I would have to say that in general, Richard Wright has made an excellent contribution to the Front Range climbing community with all of his route setting work. It is easy to criticize others, but before you get too carried away why not try and do it yourself, show us your route, and then we can all tell you what you did wrong. Just a thought. Aug 20, 2001
Kudos to the route setters on this one, it was bad-ass! Mantle city though, whew, come with your tri's nice and fresh...meets just in time to do the crux of the nine too. loved it... Jun 23, 2001