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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

- V-easy 3
Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Turd Burglar V6 7A
Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

While one of the many crags in the SSV Canyon that has seen only a fraction of its potential lines developed, the Sweat Loaf does hold a host of truly classic trad crack systems. The main sector of the Sweat Loaf dome faces roughly West by North/West but seems to get good sun for much of the day. In the years prior to Bernard Gilett showing up, the Sweat Loaf was home to several multi-pitch routes from 5.9 to 5.11. Linking up the faces between the corners and cracks with a few judicious bolts has opened up some new, difficult lines. Presently there are about a dozen lines on the Sweat Loaf, all two or three pitches in length, however, a number of rap stations have been established at 80 and 100 ft marks, so it is possible to grab a pitch without necessarily topping out. Very little published material exists for the Sweat Loaf. Tom Brown put out a mini-guide (R&I, number 79) but this is quite dated. Bernard has an up-dated map but this will probably not become available until he publishes a complete guide (!). For the present then, numbering here will follow left to right starting in the gully on the East side. The Sweat Loaf virtually looms over the road but the excellent granite, good position, and bomber gear placements make a trip to the Sweat Loaf well worth the day's effort.

Getting There

Drive 4.9 miles up the canyon to a pull out on the left. Most of the time you can wade the creek without much difficulty. Once on the other side just head for the big dome.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Revocation
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
White Shores
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Deodorant
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Big Dogs Variation
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Big Dogs on the Prowl
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Revocation
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
White Shores
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Deodorant
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Big Dogs Variation
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Big Dogs on the Prowl
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
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Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
The guys I climb with in the Vrain call this rock Big Dogs. Go up the right flank and check out the lines up there. The shallow dihedral with bolts is Big Dogs, named for Andy's dog Coon. 10c/d? The second pitch uses bolts and gear after the difficulty relents, 12a? Off to the right is the diagonal crack Rats Roof (I think that's the name) and the bolted variation that breaks out left 11b. Good stuff. Go in the fall, the poison ivy sucks. Oct 4, 2002

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