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Routes in Area 51

Alien Hot Rod T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Government Conspiracy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Blue Doctors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Scare T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
UFO T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Elevation: 6,300 ft
Page Views: 2,099 total, 20/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

A large crag in the lower SSV with some multi-pitch climbing on what is genreally good hard stone. The main routes get only late day sun. On summer mornings it is crisp and cool, but being lower in the canyon, it will hold snow only in the early season. The crag is still fairly obscure and should not be crowded. As such, you will probably be alone with a dozed routes rated 5.8 to 5.12a, about half of which are multi-pitch, and most of which have second-pitch options to top out on this 200' crag. If you find yourself with unwanted company, a few hundred yards of walking to Desdimona will give you privacy and another 6 routes, from 5.3 to 5.11a to climb.

Take a rack from RPs to a #4 Camalot, as several routes here have the occasional wide spot. It might come as comfort to some that most of the hard cimbing (cruxes) are face moves and thus bolt-protected.

Getting There

Drive up canyon for 4 minutes to what would be mile 29.2 for the road signs and park on one of the pullouts on either side of the road. Hike up the pant legs, put on the sandals, and walk across a shallow area of stream. Alternatively, pick & hop your way across on rocks if the water is low enough.

A vague trail is marked down low by some cairns, but fades to mixed game trails on the way up the hill... but the land contour and destination are pretty obvious and would be hard to miss. The approach has some steep sections, but is not bad at all, and should take 15-20 minutes.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Area 51

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Alien Hot Rod
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Alien Hot Rod 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
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Fair amount of poison ivy just after crossing the river. Definitely wear pants on the approach. Also, just after you pass through the trees (immediately after crossing the creek), you get into some shrubbery and poison ivy. Keep an eye out for snakes here. A monster bull snake struck at my wife when we were leaving in the evening. There was also a good-sized black snake (probably a water snake) at this same location. The combo of the 2 elicited some severe shrieking (not just hers). Sep 13, 2011

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