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Routes in Area 51

Alien Hot Rod T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Government Conspiracy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Blue Doctors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Scare T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
UFO T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Huggins, Hudgel
Page Views: 534 total, 7/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 13, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Alien Hot Rod is a nice crack/seam/flake sort of line that splits the left side of a nice granite face on the west side of Area 51. There is a little bit of small vegetation here and there, but it didn't seem to interfere with the climbing. Climb the crack using a variety of techniques. At the top of the crack, bump to the right (feels kind of contrived here) towards the top, and roll over onto an easy slab up to the anchor.

3 star climbing but total bomb for bolting a perfectly protectable crack (and ironically producing a route that isn't as well protected).

Location

Alien Hot Rod is on the far right side (west face) of Area 51. Just after you round the northwest corner, there is a thin crack up a vertical face with bolts on the right side of the crack. This is Alien Hot Rod.

Protection

The crack is bolted, but be cautious getting to the 2nd bolt. It is a big reach to clip it, and if you blow it, you (and/or your belayer) might be in trouble. Near the top there is a bolt that sticks out about 1/2" or so. It is not exactly high quality craftmanship here.

Better yet just do it on gear. Bring a standard rack to #1 Camalot. I used a gold Ballnut at the crux and the piece looked good.

Photos

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