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Routes in Area 51
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Alien Hot Rod T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Government Conspiracy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Blue Doctors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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North By Northeast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Red Scare T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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UFO T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.19651, -105.32108 |
| FA: | Hudgel |
| Page Views: | 1,116 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
UFO is a cool little route that will test your ability to place tiny pro and then climb kind of insecure slab past it.
Mantle up to a slight right-facing dihedral/flake. Head up this feature with easy liebacking and fairly good pro (other than slightly crumbly rock). Near the top of the dihedral, double check to make sure you have good pro, then head up and right using a very thin seam for pro. Take your time to get the best pro that you can here, as the pro is tiny and takes some fiddling, and the climbing is kind of insecure. Keep heading up the seam as the pro gets better. The anchors are on a small ledge about 60 feet up.
Location
This is in the center of the north face of Area 51. Look for a right-facing flake that heads up to a tiny seam.
Protection
A good selection of small RPs as well as nuts and small cams from micro to #0.5 Camalot or so. Be careful arranging and slinging your pro so that the RPs don't get pulled out in a fall.
I gave this a PG-13 rating as the average climber breaking into 10a will probably have a hard time placing adequate pro through the crux.
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