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Routes in Observatory Rock

99% Pure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vision T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flop, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Bead Game, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jonah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mineral Secretion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panic in the Gray Womb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punch Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Mechanic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stargazing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Telescoping Sum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Will Chevy Slab S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Page Views: 5,552 total, 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 1969
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Observatory Rock is composed of typical, and excellent, SSV granite. The crag faces South and Southeast providing cool climbing in the afternoon. It presently hosts fewer than a dozen described routes, and some combination of guides is probably useful for orientation. I have found the Falcon Guide by Peter Hubbel to contain more route descriptions than other sources; however, much of this is misleading. For example, routes listed as 130 feet long have turned out to be more like 65 feet long (truly). Routes span the gamut in terms of difficulty with 5.7 and 5.8 trad or 5.12d sport, although there are not many at any grade. The crag is well worth a day's visit.

Getting There

5.1 miles up the South Saint Vrain Canyon, via CO Highway 7, is a large pull-out on the right side of the road. This can be used for parking for Observatory Rock and the Narrows. Observatory Rock is directly above the parking and has a 5 minute approach.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Observatory Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Original Route
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Mechanic
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flop, The
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Skin Mechanic 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Flop, The 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
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Photos

AC wants to know about the bolt line right of Orignal Route: it's called "Will Chevy Slab?", and we rated it 5.10d. 6 bolts, though you need small stoppers to get to the first bolt, and TCUs between bolts 1 and 2. Ends at tree of Original Route (75' rap). The name is a silly word play working off of Wilford Roof, the lefthand of three roof cracks through the big roof on the right (the other two roof cracks are also routes now, though the middle one has not been redpointed to my knowledge - it's quite difficult). Lots of new routes on that crag in the last couple years, mostly cracks with an odd bolt or two, and most of them high quality (the rock there is great). Still working on that SSV guide -- keeps getting bigger all the time, so it'll be a while before it's done.

======= Aug 2, 2004
Sport route right of "Original Route"?

There is a bolted line to the right of Original route. Perhaps 5 painted bolts with a tree at top behind a bolder for the anchor. Anyone known anything about this route? From the ground it looked like a 5.6 scramble. On the route it felt like a 5.11 frictionfest. Aug 2, 2004

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