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Routes in Guardian Rock

Asses and Elbows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ginger Arete T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rhino Rocket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Side Slab S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silence Howling S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Description

Guardian Rock

This is a small, granitic rock lying just uphill from the Guard House, and on the opposite side of the road/river from Scout Rock in S. St. Vrain Canyon. Very close to the road yet feeling a bit wild with its vegetated underbrush, it lies about 3 1/2 miles from the intersection of Hwy 7 & US 36 in Lyons. It has been developed somewhat along its western face with at least 5 bolted sport climbs, 2 of which (Shuffling Madness, 11b & Weight of the World, 11b) are listed in P. Hubbel's Classic Rock Climbs No. 23 Lyons Area Colorado guidebook. This fairly-clean, W face can be nice on a sunny winter day. It certainly has room for development; however, its N face is fairly covered with lichen. Note there were & still are large, delicately balanced rocks perched on this rock to surprise the unwary.

Getting There

From the plains, drive to Lyons along US 36 to the intersection of Hwy 7 & US 36 on the W side of Lyons. Head S & then W along US 36 to a straight-away about 3 1/2 miles. Park along a pullout below a house. The rock is obvious. From the highlands, head down Hwy 7 to near the bottom of the canyon past the Narrows, December Wall, past the Mushroom Massif. Cross the St. Vrain. Bushwhack up a short distance to the rock approaching either E or W (depending upon which route(s) are of interest) of the base of the N face. There is an mildly-interesting small rock arch below the E side of the N face. The underbrush is scratchy.

6 Total Climbs

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