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Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

The December Wall is a large South facing rock band situated about 800 feet above the road in SSV canyon on the North side of the road. The cliff can be logically divided into two sectors. The left 500 feet of the cliff holds numerous older trad lines running in grade from 5.8 to 5.10+. The right hand side consists of a small, steep sector containing only half a dozen routes. It is formed by the alcove composed of blonde colored rock, steep and on the right. All of the new routes here were put in by Mike Freischlag 4 years ago. The climbing on both sectors is a bit hit-or-miss inasmuch as quality varies substantially from pitch to pitch. Some of it can be truly chossy with excessive surface exfoliation. On the other hand, some of the granite is excellent. I did a Freischlag route several years ago that was truly superb, but the route immediately adjacent was not on such fine stone (sorry Mike). Both sectors get terrific sun and can be climbed most of the year.

Getting There

From the intersection in Lyons, head up CO 7 along SSV canyon for 4.3 miles. There is a large parking area a bit further ahead. The wall is the large, obvious hulk well above the canyon bottom. I have never really found a "trail" to either sector; however, the bushwhacking is easy.

L->R:

Per Jay Eggleston:

Below?
A. Crown Molding, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
B. Door Jam, 9-, 1p, 40', gear.

December Wall
A? Moonstruck, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.
B. Seams Alright, 10+, 1p, gear.
C. Mnemonic Plague, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
D. I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth, 10-, 2p, gear.
E. Red Tag , 11+, 1p, 85', gear & bolts.
F. Arborvitae, 10, 2p, 145', gear.
above F. Nosebleed, 11, 2p, 145', gear.
G? Great Tree Route.
H. Short Takes, 10, 2p, 300', gear.
I. Nocturne, 10, 2p, 200', gear & bolts.
J. Little Caesar, 10, 1p, 95', bolts & gear.
K. Caesar's, 10-, 2p, gear.
L. A Long December, 11-, 3p, 200', gear.
M. Ranklands of Perfidy, 9, 1p, 120', gear.
N. Life After James , 11-, 3p, 220', bolts.
ON. Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var), 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Telegraph Road, 11, 2p, bolts.
P. Winter Dreams, 10, 250', 3p, gear & bolts.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at December Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Door Jam
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mnemonic Plague
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arborvitae
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Caesar
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Exc…
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nocturne
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seams Alright
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
A Long December
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var)
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Life After James
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Tag
Trad, Sport
Door Jam 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Mnemonic Plague 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
I Promise Not To Cam In You… 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Caesar's 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Arborvitae 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Little Caesar 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Winter Dreams / Gene and Ge… 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Nocturne 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Seams Alright 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
A Long December 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Climb of the Anonymous Cowa… 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Life After James 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Telegraph Road 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Red Tag 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in December Wall »

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Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The routes are not sorted in order on the site. For example, "I promise Not to Cam In Your Mouth" is the first route right of "Mnemonic Plague". Jan 18, 2014
lizzer  
I was at this area over the weekend. There is a lot of poison ivy at the bottom of some of the climbs so much that a couple of the climbs we were not able to do because of getting in the poison ivy. Be aware of what poison ivy looks like before you head up there!

The climbs were fun but because of the bushwhacking to the crag and lack of trail, I would think twice about going back to this area. It would be nice if a trail were developed.

Also my friend, pulled off a chunk of rock at the bottom of Caeasar's, but I don't believe it will affect the route. Jun 30, 2009
The rock looks a little rough and dirty from the base, but improves greatly. After climbing out of the lower overhang it becomes clean polished granite. It IS worth a visit. Apr 5, 2004
Choss- take some time and look around for better rock, there's lots of it..... Mar 5, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
I have been trying to get a more established trail up to the wall. The hill is showing signs of increased traffic. I have been putting up cairns on the trail I use to get up there. Park at the far east end of the large parking lot. Cross the street and walk to the east where a green highway pole is. Look for a cairn 50 feet up on a boulder. Follow cairns up to the wall. This will avoid the roadcut. Dec 21, 2003
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
I did a route a couple years ago on the upper section of the wall (farther up than the routed in the Hubble book). It started with an easy 5.8 crack out a little corner/roof and led to a thin crack up to a large pancaked flake 10a? . From there it was 80 feet of runout slab, stemming up two small, grassy , four inch corners to some old webbing on a ledge. Any Idea what it is? Also there is a beautiful bolted corner on the lower portion of the wall starting on a raised ledge? May 16, 2003
you should try winter dreams on this rock, its a little trickybest part is a big 10c/d roof to a dihedralup through another little roof.

or try ranklands of infinityit has a pretty scary slab move befor the scond pitchbelay station. then to ceasars crack which is great, good finger stacksand smear crack then to the third pitch, a west facing face with zig-zag looking crack with a blind orange camalot placement.with a nice walk down.WATCH OUT FOR POISON IVY AND POSSIBLY SUMAC.

WINTER DREAM START IS THE BIG DIHEDRAL THAT GOES TO THE BIG ROOF.

ranklands is about 30- 40 feet to the left one bolt to find the start. Apr 19, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Joe, can you part with a little more beta? I have had my eye on several lines that I have scoped on and off for several years. I'm not sure if they have been climbed or not. What information is in the guides seems rather a pitiful sampling of what must actually have been climbed here. It would seem that most of the crack systems on the left would protect very well, but some of the irregular blocks in the mid section look unclimbed and hard to protect. Apr 25, 2002
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
The sport routes in the alcove up and right are on absolute garbage rock. I can't believe someone wasted their time and money installing those bolts. I can't believe I wasted my time and effort bushwhacking up there only to find vertical gravel. The most offensive part of the experience was finding an obviously epoxy-reinforced hold 5 feet off the ground on one of the routes. Whoever put these routes up....What the fuck were you thinking? Do us all a favor and sell your drill...... Feb 25, 2002
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
aka Karen O's Wall, named for a girl I used to work with. Jim Morrison, Marc Hirt, Dave Hague and I did some routes up there in '80 or '81, trad, ground up and cleaned on lead. Oct 4, 2001
Watch out for the "Poison Ivy" Jul 30, 2001

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