Avg: 3.1 from 12 votes
|Type:||Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Matt Juth / Bernard Gillett, 12/03|
|Page Views:||2,334 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Juth on Dec 25, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is named for one of my favorite songs. I guess I just notice the bane of creation as I walk up there.
The route begins just to the right of Life After James on the arete of a left-facing dihedral.
P1: 90 feet, 7 bolts, 5.11-, A few nuts can be placed. Stem out on the arete from the slab, clip a bolt, fire up to the second bolt and pull around (11-). Climb up to the double bulges and mantle through each (10). A longer draw on bolt 3 will reduce drag. Bear hug and sidepull up the slab and seam to the belay (10-).
P2: 65 feet, 6 bolts, 5.11. Traverse left on the foot ledge to the first bolt, and pull over the bulge on a crimp (10+). The next bolt looks far, but once above the first bolt the moves are easy. work up on the good horizontals to bolt 3. Pull up the blank polished slab to good handholds and work the feet to a decent stance (11). Climb along the margin of the slab with slick balancy moves past a chickenhead to the belay (10).