Ranklands of Perfidy
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in December Wall
|A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||George Watson & Norman Boles, 1980s?|
|Page Views:||779 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Heiser on Feb 28, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionClimb the dirty crack over a roof skipping the first bolt. This bolt is useless and unnecessary as there is a great cam placement approximately 4 inches from the bolt. Continue up to the second roof. Climb this on the left, 10a, or around to the right (easier). Continue up the crack system until another bolt is encountered. Again this bolt is completely unneccesary. Place an Alien right next to the bolt, and climb a quick crux (9). Exit the crack, and find yourself on the slab.
The first time I led this, I place gear to protect my second and traversed across the slab to the right to the LAJ anchor and rappeled. The second time that I led this I went straight up the slab for a few feet, placed marginal gear, did a mantle (10a poor pro), then traversed straight left to the bolt anchor at the top of P1 of A Long December.
From there, we climbed out to the left of the ALD anchor and climbed the twin seam/cracks up the left margin of the slab (p2 of Caesar's crack) to the anchor at the top of p2 of A Long December. The twin seam/crack is a very nice trad pitch. The bolts on p2 of ALD are just to the right when climbing this crack system, but wanting to do a trad lead, I ingnored them. Doing Ranklands this way makes for a very enjoyable 2 pitch 10a trad outing.
Ranklands does not have the greatest rock at the base but the holds that look chossy are suprisingly solid. It is not a destination climb by any means but worth doing once when visiting the December Wall.