Mountain Project Logo

Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett, Paul Bodnar, 2006
Page Views: 651 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Nocturne is a very fun mixed sport/trad climb on the main December Wall. It begins with a steep, juggy, hand traverse. A perplexing but finally not so hard move leads to a bulge. The crux is a very high step while laybacking a rounded arĂȘte. That's the end of the bolted climbing. Nice 5.9 moves up connected cracks a flakes lead to a steep final corner and the P1 anchors. We did not climb P2. The P2 10b crux looks to be a finger/layback crack immediately above the belay with good gear but poor feet. This section is about 15' long. Above that the route angles left and then up and apparently is easier.

Location

Midway between Caesar's Crack and the big, right-facing corner of I Promise is a small pine bush about 12 feet off the ground. The route hand traverses right past this bush then climbs up and slightly right to the anchors.

Protection

6 bolts lead to just past the crux. Currently, there is a ring on the last bolt, apparently so those who don't want to do the trad upper half can bail. A single standard rack suffices for the 5.9 upper half.

Photos

Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
One distinct crux, the rest of the climbing is pretty pleasant 5.9. Mar 18, 2014
Rich Kelly
Boulder
  5.10c
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.10c
Did p2 today and Ivan nailed the description accurately.
To get down from the top of p2, move right (east) 20' to anchors on p2 of a Long December. Jan 2, 2012