Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett, Paul Bodnar, 2006
Page Views: 1,341 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Nocturne is a very fun mixed sport/trad climb on the main December Wall. It begins with a steep, juggy, hand traverse. A perplexing but finally not so hard move leads to a bulge. The crux is a very high step while laybacking a rounded arĂȘte. That's the end of the bolted climbing. Nice 5.9 moves up connected cracks a flakes lead to a steep final corner and the P1 anchors. We did not climb P2. The P2 10b crux looks to be a finger/layback crack immediately above the belay with good gear but poor feet. This section is about 15' long. Above that the route angles left and then up and apparently is easier.

Location Suggest change

Midway between Caesar's Crack and the big, right-facing corner of I Promise is a small pine bush about 12 feet off the ground. The route hand traverses right past this bush then climbs up and slightly right to the anchors.

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts lead to just past the crux. Currently, there is a ring on the last bolt, apparently so those who don't want to do the trad upper half can bail. A single standard rack suffices for the 5.9 upper half.