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Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: George Watson and Norman Boles, mid-1980s
Page Views: 1,641 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is on a chossy wall, but it gets direct sunlight.

P1. This sweet crack climb starts up a very prominent hand crack just right of a large overhang with a nice finger crack. The hand crack is easy and low angle for 30 feet to a nice ledge. Continue straight up a vertical, rotten crack with a pin about 10 feet up protecting the rotten section crux (5.9). Continue up a nice hand jam/lieback system that gradually widens to offwidth but gets less steep. The anchor is one bolt and a fixed tricam on a slabby ledge.

Pitch 2 (which I didn't do) goes left on ledge to nice crack/flake system and some roofs to large walk-off ledge.

Protection

Trad rack: small to larger (#4 Camalot).

Photos

Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Exciting first pitch. That downward pointing flake is going to be a widowmaker some day.... Mar 18, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
I did not see the pin today either. This is a great climb! Jan 18, 2014
JFM
JFM  
Didn't see the pin today 16-Feb-13 (though that doesn't mean it's not there). Also, the slings around the horn (mentioned in BG's guide) were rotted off, so plan to sling that rock yourself. Feb 16, 2013
Andy Kowles
Longtuckles
Andy Kowles   Longtuckles
I climbed what I think was pitch two of this route yesterday after P1 of the route directly left (which is a quality pitch). It felt like reachy hard 5.9 which gradually eased off, good pro, run it to the top. Fun stuff, and clean! Mar 13, 2012
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.9
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.9
There are now 4 bolts at the top of P1. Ha. Feb 21, 2012
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
I thought this was one of the nicer lines on the crag when Norman and I climbed it. Any bolts are post FA. Jul 9, 2010
Dan Howell
Northglenn, CO
 
Dan Howell   Northglenn, CO
 
There are now three bolts at the end of pitch one.
--- Invalid image id: 106765353 --- May 16, 2010
Note that the area around the base of this climb and adjacent climbs has a fair amount of poison ivy. If you have my guidebook, you might make a note of the PI hazard in this area of December Wall for future reference. There's also a bush of ivy on this route at the base of the upper corner (you can see it in the photo) -- avoid it if you are allergic to ivy. Mar 27, 2009
There are now two 1/4" bolts at the end of P1. Feb 6, 2005