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Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Matt Juth, 1/04
Page Views: 893 total, 5/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jan 14, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I was asked about this variation the other day, so I am adding this for the benefit of others. This is not an independent line but merely a combination of P2 of Life After James, and P2 of Telegraph Road. The purpose of this climb is to toprope the crux pitch of Telegraph Road (or the whole thing) if desired. It is a a lot of fun, if you have some time to kill, and is a direct line.

Climb past the crimpy P2 crux of Life After James 10+/11- (height-dependent) clipping the first three bolts. Keep climbing in a straight line to join Telegraph Road just past the crux. This is a little run out but moderate. The bolt on Telegraph Road is visible from the belay but can be concealed a little bit when doing this variation. Just remember where it is to avoid fretting.

Finish with the final four bolts of Telegraph Road. For me, the crux is the last 15 feet which get your attention at 5.10.

From the anchor, you can rap to either the belay on Life After James or the P1 anchors of Telegraph Road. This sets up a good TR.

Protection

7 draws. A small nut can be fiddled in at an overlap if desired. Rapping from 2 bolts with rings at the top will you to a two bolt anchor at the top of Telegraph's P1.

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Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I led a variation of this route last weekend that was quite fun: I did this because I had not climbed the flake that leads from partway up Ranklands directly to the LAJ belay. So the pitch. I started on Ranklands and climbed that up to the roof.I exited right from the roof and followed the cracks up to the flake.I then followed the flake out to the right and then up to the belay on LAJ p1.From there I did the crux off the ledge and clipped the first 3 bolts on LAJ p2.From there I clipped the last 4 bolts on TR ending the pitch on the Telegraph Road anchor.The first part of this lead might have a 8 move or two.The flake is about 7 or 8 and then the bolted finish is 11-. The whole thing together makes for one really nice mixed pitch that I about 190 feet long. The trad part from Ranklands and up the flake to the LAJ belay makes for a nice trad lead in itself. Mar 1, 2005
Have you done it, genius? Feb 21, 2005
Chris  
sounds stupid Feb 18, 2005