Mountain Project Logo

Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett
Page Views: 169 total · 7/month
Shared By: R Sather on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I have been attempting the second pitch of this route as a link up with Telegraph Road and didn't realize it had a first pitch that is basically a variation of Life After James. I have taken Bernard Gillett's description from a previous comment on MP (if this is inappropriate use of his comment, please inform me, and I will change the description).

"Excellent climbing, a little squeezed (between Telegraph Road and Winter Dreams), but worth the bolts in my opinion. The first pitch (5.10b) begins with Life After James (clip its first 7 bolts, staying to the right) and then follows the thin cracks (gear) just left of the upper half of pitch 1 on Telegraph Road to its belay. The second pitch goes straight up (7 bolts, reachy opening moves that can be avoided on the right, with 5.11 crux at bolt 4, harder than the crux on pitch 2 of Telegraph Road -- I rated it 5.11b)."

Location

Do the same start as for Life After James.

Protection

Thin gear and quickdraws.

Photos

- No Photos -
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.12b R
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.12b R
I did the first 10b pitch yesterday, and the runout after placing small cam & nut was really scary. Halfway up the runout, I almost peeled. I do not recommend it, since if you fall, you might hit the broken ledge.

Beta: although falling repeatedly, the 11b was much harder than some 11c's I've been on. First I tried straight up, then I tried right. I kept slipping on the smooth face; finally going left I found a micro foot hold that I was able to use to get to the dike left of the next bolt. With luck, I was just able to make the traverse, clip that sucker (i.e. bolt), and grab the QD. After that, I didn't have any problem. Nov 21, 2016