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Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Corner Bead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cove Trim S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Tree Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Sport, TR, 150 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett? A combination of previously bolted lines
Page Views: 168 total · 6/month
Shared By: R Sather on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

Start up the first pitch of Telegraph Road using the bolt line to the right of the corner on the arete. Once at the top of the first pitch of Telegraph Road; clip the anchor, and continue up and right via The Road Goes Ever On through a small bulge to a stance (one could even use the corner on Winter Dreams on the right to stem out). Once at the stance, continue up the bolt line directly left of Winter Dreams on the glass-like slab using the diagonal weaknesses to advance. The crux (for me) is deciphering a sequence through the aesthetic, crystal edges where footholds seem to disappear and decent edges are just out of reach. This climbs is slightly contrived. Some bolts on Telegraph Road are reachable, however, the climbing is memorable no matter which bolt line is taken.

I'd suggest to have your second follow and do two rappels back to the ground or the leader can do two rappels back to the ground and the partner could lead it and clean on the rappels down.

Portions of this climb can also be TR'ed when rappelling off of climbs like Life After James.

Location [Edit]

Use the same start as for Telegraph Road using the bolt line closest to the arete.

Protection [Edit]

15 draws not including anchors; maybe 18+ just to be safe, and a 70 meter rope. Perhaps bring some extendable slings a 0.5 and/or a small cam (black Alien/ red BD x4) for the beginning, but all the gear can be back cleaned to eliminate rope drag.

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