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Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett, Paul Bodnar 2006
Page Views: 746 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Crown Molding is a stout warmup for routes on the main December Wall. The initial corner is sustained and treacherous with small gear. A fun bolt-protected hand traverse leads to a bolt-protected ceiling. Above an easier but awkward, right-angling crack leads to the anchors.

Re-reading Gillett's description, we may have missed a final optional finger crack.

It looks like this climb has only been climbed a couple of times. The chain anchors were brand new with no sign of wear from pulling ropes.

From the anchors, you can toprope the first two thirds of Door Jamb, the 5.9 chimney to the right. Because of the rope angle, you get to avoid the upper part of the chimney, which looks like even less fun than the bottom. The slab to the left of the upper part of the chimney is climbable to the anchors at 10 something.

Location

The easiest way to find this is to start down the descent trail from the Life After James area. Immediately, contour east below a short wall, over a shallow rise, to a shaded wall by a tall pine tree. The chimney in the left-facing corner is Door Jamb. The right-leaning, left-facing corner to the left of the chimney is Crown Molding. If approaching from below, look for the buttress to the right of Life After James and aim for some pine trees diagonally down and right of that. To the right of Crown Molding is a more prominent wall with lots of ribs and gullies.

Protection

I used a bunch of microcams and a nut or two, plus a #3/blue Camalot in the upper crack. There are several bolts along the hand traverse and one for the ceiling.

Photos

tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
This climb could take gear well, especially after you lead the start... Jun 13, 2009
Rich Kelly
Boulder
 
Rich Kelly   Boulder
 
Near the top of the right-angling crack is a shallow, thin crack corner which is the intended route. It serves up some fun 5.8 climbing leading to a ledge after 30+ feet. The anchors are on the wall behind this ledge and are not visible till you reach the ledge. Note that you can only slingshot this route with a 60m (or longer) rope. Mar 22, 2009