Life After James
Avg: 3 from 30 votes
|Type:||Sport, 220 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Matt Juth / Paul Findley 11/15/03|
|Page Views:||2,727 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Juth on Nov 14, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is located at the tallest point of December Wall, about 50 feet to the left of Winter Dreams (Gene and George's Excellent Adventure). Locate an overhanging corner beginning at a small pine tree 20 feet up. The line continues straight up the face to a ledge just before the top. There is varied climbing with different rock on every pitch.
P1: 90 feet, 5.10+. Climb up an easy flake system, or the harder slab to the right (directly below the bolt) to gain the overhang (5.6 or 5.9). Climb up and out the strange corner (9+) to reach a good stance on a small ledge. Either climb straight up to a short finger crack on the left (10c) or break right and pull up onto the pillar (10a/b). Finish up nice slab moves to the belay.
P2: 70 feet, 5.10+. Pull up onto the varnished slab, using small edges, and crimp to a horizontal break (10d). Pass another varnished section either to the right (10a) or left (8), and run it out a bit through easy climbing to a bolt and the shining headwall. Move up the slick headwall with fun balancy moves, mantle through the crux (10c) and pull back right into the crack. Easy climbing past a bolt reaches the belay.
P3: 50 feet, 5.11. Slab climb up and right, past 2 bolts, to reach the right-hand corner of the big roof. Clip the third bolt, and pull a strenuous move to good liebacks (11b), clip the fourth bolt and climb easier rock to the anchors. There is a directional bolt for belaying the follower above the ledge. Watch out for loose rock on the ledge. 100 pounds of dirt and rock were removed to make this a safe stance.
Descent: either rap (you and your rope will end up in the small tree above the start. I think throwing ropes to the right at the first belay is best), or escape 10' right past the directional bolt to gain the top. You can walk off to the west. From the top, it is possible to gain the Backstage Wall. It is facing you once you get on the grass around the corner. Just walk 100' around the gully to reach bolts at the top.