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Desdemona Rock Climbing
Routes in Desdemona
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Elanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northwest Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oasis Red T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tortoise And The Hare, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Elevation: | 6,300 ft | 1,920 m |
| GPS: |
40.19705, -105.32059 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 5,676 total · 30/month | |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 6, 2009 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This is a small, roughly pyramid-shaped crag coming it at 1/2 rope length tall, with 6 routes packed in tightly, almost all of which are good. The moderately long approach of 20 minutes is well justified, as once you arrive you are literally just a few hundred yards from the additional dozen routes on Area 51. The rock on both crags is generally solid and well cleaned, particularly on this one. The climbing ranges from 5.3 to 5.11a, without a lead-move over 5.9+ that isn't protected by a bolt, as the harder climbs are either sport or mixed.
The climbs are Northwestward and get shade for most of the day, but the summit will be sunny and warm on hot days.
To descend, rap 100' (60m rope required) from Eleanor, or downclimb the South Gully (less pleasant).
The climbs are Northwestward and get shade for most of the day, but the summit will be sunny and warm on hot days.
To descend, rap 100' (60m rope required) from Eleanor, or downclimb the South Gully (less pleasant).
Getting There
Drive up canyon for 4 minutes to what would be mile 29.2 for the road signs and park on one of the pullouts on either side of the road. Hike up the pant legs, put on the sandals, and walk across a shallow area of stream. Alternatively, pick & hop your way across on rocks if the water is low enough.
A vague trail is marked down low by some Cairns, but fades to mixed game trails on the way up the hill... but the land contour and destination are pretty obvious and would be hard to miss. The approach has some steep sections, but it is not bad at all and should take 15-20 minutes.
A vague trail is marked down low by some Cairns, but fades to mixed game trails on the way up the hill... but the land contour and destination are pretty obvious and would be hard to miss. The approach has some steep sections, but it is not bad at all and should take 15-20 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Desdemona
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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