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Routes in Desdemona

Elanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oasis Red T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tortoise And The Hare, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Brown and Tim Butler, 1995
Page Views: 216 total, 3/month
Shared By: Rich Kelly on May 8, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Start on the left end of the west ledge (just left of Oasis Red). Most of the 1st pitch is shared with Northwest Arete. Go up easy rock heading for the nice looking slab with a crack running up it. Continue up this crack to where the wall bulges and continue through the bulge to awkward moves moving right (9+) to gain a stance above the bulge. Move left around the corner to the north face and a sloping ledge. Follow the ledge down and left and set up a belay. You should be directly below the crux overhang.

For the second pitch, head up a flared crack to the roof and clip the bolt over the lip. There are hard layback moves (11a) to get over the overhang. Move up to horizontal and clip 2nd bolt and make 2nd thin face crux moves to reach the top.

Rappel from Elanor's chains.


Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.


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