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Routes in The Acrophile

Acrophilia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Acrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Badger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Powder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Claustrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Deer Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iced Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lithophyte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Straw T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shitty Surprise T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Slab in the Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabolishous T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Slabophilia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Slabs T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stiff Lipped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yawning Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Yellow Jersey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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GPS: 40.186, -105.333 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,268 total · 30/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Apr 17, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The Acrophile is one of the largest rocks in the SSV, and it is composed of some of the best rock in the canyon. It is a moderate trad climbers paradise with over 20 crack climbs ascending the southwest face. The routes range from 75 feet to 200 feet in length. The rock gets sun midday until late afternoon. Most routes are worthy of a star or two, with an amazing three star route thrown in. Two 100' rappels or a walkoff to the south are available

The rock's namesake is a wild 5.11 roof pulled via an offwidth. There are a couple other old routes; however, most were climbed recently by B. Gillett and friends.

Getting There

The Acrophile sits high on the south side of the canyon just above a large paved pulloff with some picnic tables. It is approximately 7 miles from Lyons. If you reach the upper toilets, turn around and look for the massive rock a mile down canyon.

Access is typical SSV. The river can be crossed slightly upstream during low water with a boulder hop, or waded downstream (6" to 1.5' deep)during higher flows. Once across the river one can hike up the gully to the right until it is possible to cut up the hillside to the rock (brushy and Ivy), or go straight up the buttress through a break in the cliffs above the river (loose). Once on the buttress, some wandering down onto the south slope is needed to avoid cliff bands and boulders.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Acrophile

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Lithophyte
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Acrophobia
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lithophyte
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Acrophobia
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
How is the approach since the flood?
Any changes? Jul 30, 2014
Brian Carver
Boulder, Co
Brian Carver   Boulder, Co
We parked at the end of the guard rail in an area big enough for about 2-3 cars. We crossed the water slightly upstream. I was able to rock hop to a shallow island and then use 2 down trees to get across the second half. There are 3 rock formations. A large one which sits on the stream, a smaller formation which sits behind and to the right of that one, and then the Acrophile which sits up and further back. The approach goes up the gully between the first two formations. Once you get to the top of the gully, head right (you'll be near the top of the second formation), and you should be able to find a trail heading towards the Acrophile. When we approached, there were a number of 2 rock cairns somebody left on the upper trail to mark access. Poison ivy was not bad on trail, but there was tons off to the sides. Expect 30-45mins. The Acrophobia roof is currently covered in thick lichen and moss. Jul 9, 2018

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