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Routes in The Acrophile

Acrophilia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Acrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Badger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Powder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Claustrophobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Deer Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iced Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lithophyte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Straw T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shitty Surprise T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Slab in the Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabolishous T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
South Slabs T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stiff Lipped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yawning Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Yellow Jersey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Description

The Acrophile is one of the largest rocks in the SSV, and it is composed of some of the best rock in the canyon. It is a moderate trad climbers paradise with over 20 crack climbs ascending the southwest face. The routes range from 75 feet to 200 feet in length. The rock gets sun midday until late afternoon. Most routes are worthy of a star or two, with an amazing three star route thrown in. Two 100' rappels or a walkoff to the south are available

The rock's namesake is a wild 5.11 roof pulled via an offwidth. There are a couple other old routes; however, most were climbed recently by B. Gillett and friends.

Getting There

The Acrophile sits high on the south side of the canyon just above a large paved pulloff with some picnic tables. It is approximately 7 miles from Lyons. If you reach the upper toilets, turn around and look for the massive rock a mile down canyon.

Access is typical SSV. The river can be crossed slightly upstream during low water with a boulder hop, or waded downstream (6" to 1.5' deep)during higher flows. Once across the river one can hike up the gully to the right until it is possible to cut up the hillside to the rock (brushy and Ivy), or go straight up the buttress through a break in the cliffs above the river (loose). Once on the buttress, some wandering down onto the south slope is needed to avoid cliff bands and boulders.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Acrophile

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
How is the approach since the flood?
Any changes? Jul 30, 2014

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