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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 220 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Aug 30, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This has really nice arete and face climbing. The first crux is at the 4th bolt, and a second crux is just before hitting the anchors. There is good rock and fun movement on the face and arete.

Location

This pitch is on the North face of the rock and starts just left of Fire on the Mountain. The first bolt is on the right side of the arete, and then you switch to the left side.

There is a mid-point anchor at 50 or 60 feet or continue to the top via Sonata. A 60m will barely make it down from the top anchor. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Protection

It is fully bolted, although you can extend this into a long pitch by continuing up the upper arete of Sonata. To do this, bring a #0.3 and 0.4 size BD Camalots.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.11c/d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11c/d
There are two ways to get to the anchor. The easier way moves right onto Fire On The Mountain for more moderate terrain & reaches back left to the anchor. For full value & a crux finish, climb the smooth slab directly up the right side of the arete (.11c/d) past the last bolt. I thought the lower crux at the 3rd bolt was .11c. May 11, 2017