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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Wright, September, 2000
Page Views: 132 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Europithacus begins just to left of the main roof system on TBB and left of the two long, two pitch routes. It starts up a low angle ramp behind a tree and right off the trail. A variation start exists 10 ft left that fires up a thin finger tips crack. Either start converges where the ramp meets the overhanging face at about 30 ft. Negotiate this by neat trick, protected by two blots, and head up via 5.9/5.10 climbing on good solid SSV granite. I'd give it a star for the 5.11 trick over the leaning face. Good warm-up route.

Protection

QD only. This route shares an anchor with the right hand variation of The Bruise Collector and offers an easy way to top rope TBC. At about 75 ft in length the route needs 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
A total sandbag at 5.11b. More like 5.12a. I had climbed at the Trojan Bunny Buttress for the first time in Summer 2001. I returned in May-June 2002, with Blake Treadway only to find that the bolts on this route had been removed. After replacing the bolts, we made the first ascent of a 3 bolt direct start (5.11d) that is downhill & left of the easy start. May 10, 2017
What a sandbag...11b I don't know. Hard move from underclings to a small crimp. Jun 26, 2002