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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Richard Wright, October, 2000
Page Views: 1,150 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Bruise Collector begins in the light, tan colored rock in the center of the TBB formation. It is just to the right of the TBB slab and directly above the steep gully. It has a good flat stance for belay. Don't be fooled. This route, originally imagined as a warm-up, is much harder than it looks. At 75 feet, The Bruise Collector can fork right for an easier finish or left for a second 5.12b crux that finishes up a narrow groove/dihedral with a roof move that gets you into the dihedral. The anchor on the right is shared with Europithicus. The main crux comes somewhere near 65 feet and involves some awkward moves around very blank bulges and felt 5.12b to me (this rating may come down if consensus demands). Overall, The Bruise Collector felt very "Rifle-esque" with lots of body position and awkward stances. Two stars for the climbing moves, the overall rock quality, and the relentless pump. There is a section of loose-looking rock at about 60 feet that is left of the actual climbing. But it is still worth watching out; someone could bail out here for a chill before the crux.

Protection

QD only. This route has alternative anchors at 85 ft on the right and at 100 ft on the left. It requires about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchors right or left.

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R Sather
COLORADO
  5.12-
R Sather   COLORADO
  5.12-
Considering the area and the other climbing here, I would say this climb is an area CLASSIC! The movement is really enjoyable and unusual for granite. Originally attempting to onsight the right variation of this climb, I thought it clocked in around 12bish, but perhaps the sequencing and body positioning was not as obvious on my first attempt. "Temptation Arete" in my opinion is harder than TBC, but TBC is steeper and the style of climbing is totally different. I also thought TBC was harder than "Fire on the Mountain (11c)" so not sure what to grade it. I think in other areas like Bocan this could clock in around 12a/b and Temptation Arete would come in around 12c. Anyhow, get on it!!! Sep 11, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
Great route. In the Summer of 2001, my friends and I may have been the second party to climb the route. I remember returning with a wire brush because Richard Wright (the first ascentionist) did not brush much lichen off. It was very dirty. After cleaning the route, I thought it was a brilliant 5.12a. I climbed it numerous times in 2002. I was shocked to see it rated 5.11c in Bernard Gillett's guidebook to the South Saint Vrain. Feb 24, 2011
Bob Rotert
  5.11+
Bob Rotert  
  5.11+
Fun, hard to read, pumpy, three dimensional climbing. With thought provoking sidepulls, underclings, stemming and scumming. It felt like it didn't have any individual moves technically harder than Temptation Arete. However, taken as a whole, without stepping off way left for a rest Richard mentions above and I have seen others use.... I would describe it as endurance oriented and, in that respect, I felt it was harder than T Arete, which we did earlier in the day.

As most of us realize and I think many don't consider, on most climbs and especially an endurance oriented climb.... Prior knowledge and gear in place can make a difference in the feeling of difficulty. So for an onsight, hanging draws as you go, which is strenuous on this route, but not hangdrawing/dogging as you go ;o), I would suggest 11+/12-. You can down grade it once you've been on it a couple of times. \;o)

This is for the left hand version which felt a bit harder than the right to me of the 2 ways to go that end at different anchors. We did the right variation, on another day, to get to Bucket List. Oct 3, 2010
We thought the right-hand version was about 11d. The eighth bolt is in the middle of the crux and very hard to clip; this lead would be much easier with a long draw or sling already on this bolt. Excellent steep pitch. Sep 7, 2008
I thought the route was 12a and superb. A bit harder than Temptation Arete. Oct 21, 2002
Scarcely past the first bolt I bump my knee on a sharp rock and start bleeding, now what was the name of that route???? Excellent route.... good job on bolt placements and picking out the line. I may be somewhat confused about which route is which between TBC and Europithacus as the right hand route of the two off the same anchor felt much harder and the route descriptions & rating seem to indicate the opposite. Either way, both are recommended and good summer routes as they get lots of shade. Jun 27, 2002