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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thy Holy Hand Grenade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Richard Wright, September, 2000
Page Views: 261 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Fire On The Mountain is situated on the Leatherface plate of The Trojan Bunny Buttress, at the far West end of TBB. It starts in a corner looking up the slab with a small move over an overhang at 10 feet and then enters a shallow dihedral with a 10 foot section of thin crack. Another roof move at the end of the crack, and the crux at 5.11c, will exit the dihedral. 30 feet of slab/seam climbing puts you at the anchor. The last move before the anchor is a bit spooky; reach right and come back left for the anchor clip. The crack in the lower half has been done on bolts (2) and with a few trad pieces, and it felt to me less committing on trad since it was possible to get in several more pieces. Very thin gear saves the pods for the hands. This route was surprisingly strenuous, largely because the dihedral overhags enough to keep you on your arms the whole way. Two stars for the climbing and the excellent quality rock.

Protection

QDs and/or a few pieces of thin crack gear. This 70 foot route needs 8-10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Awesome route!! Hard clip, a little scary I didn't have any gear to place. Great moves to gain the slab. Jun 26, 2002
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
Why are there bolts at the bottom of this route where there is a splitter crack?! They are unnecessary. Sep 18, 2011
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Nice stone and climbing on the lower section, harder than it looks as it is just beyond vertical. Lower section was pretty reachy, the exit move felt heinously scrunchy. An equal-opportunity sort of route. Sep 19, 2011
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Responding to previous poster: the sad irony is that the bottom half is better protected with gear than with the bolts. You know the bolting job isn't the greatest when the FA says that he found climbing it on gear to be less committing.... Sep 26, 2011
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
Since 2002, I have always felt this climb was hard for the grade. I have always placed a #6 or 7 stopper above the 2nd bolt. The 2nd bolt is low enough that falling off getting to the 3rd bolt seems like a bad idea. The nut placement is bomber & protects the moves. Hard, sustained crack moves followed by hard face moves above the 4th bolt deliver a good forearm pump. Cool slab climbing finish. Sep 1, 2017

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