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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: A. Pon?
Page Views: 181 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good sport route route with decently sustained, steep slabbing. This is on the same rock as Trojan Bunny Buttress but a bit further right. It faces West. You must cross the creek to get to the rock which is easier to do later in the summer. In the picture here, it goes approximately to the "15."

It seems the route could be listed under Trojan Bunny Buttress, but both Rolofson & Hubbel list it under a separate rock called Leather Face.

You may find 2 cruxes between the 3rd & 4th bolts and at the 5th bolts. The harder crux seemed at the 5th bolt. We found it best to go right to seam here. There is a spot for a small cam near the top. It gets 2 of 5 stars from Rolofson, 3 of 5 stars from Hubbel. It is slightly higher quality than Alley Cat Street. 1.91 stars here :) 110 feet. 'Ave fun.

Protection

7 bolts plus a possible small cam, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Some really good climbing on this one, but expect difficult, improbable moves well above the bolts. Sep 19, 2011