Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: B Gillett, P Bodnar, 2008
Page Views: 626 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 14, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This great climb ascends the striking arete that earned it its place on the cover of Gillett's SSV Guidebook.

Start up a few slab moves as for Pondemonium and clip its first bolt with a 2' sling, then head left on a rounded traverse edge (and or foot) passing a tiny pine to reach a bolted line on the arete (Fire on the Mountain) for several bolts to a bolted anchor. Clip the left bolt of that anchor with another 2' sling and head up and left into what may be a second pitch... there will be an obvious horizontal to place cams in, though that is after the crux climbing and the next bolt is just overhead and the previous not far down... place optional cams and continue up ther arete to one more bolt. Just when it seems that the climb might be runout, look left of the arete for one more bolt out there (long sling?) and then upward on more moderate terrain to another bolt on the arete (long sling here if you didn't on the last bolt) and to the top, passing more gear opportunity. The climb is a shave over 35m as climbed, but once the rope is straight, on rap, a 70m should get you down just fine, with a meter or two spare.

Location

This route starts toward the far right end of TBB, in the upper side of the left wall in a right-facing corner, facing more or less SW.

Protection

A heavy rack of draws with a 3-4 longer slings to reduce rope drag around the corner and when switching directions... plus cams from 0.4-2", of which you might place 2-3 in all.

Bring a 70m rope to descend.

Photos

Jeff G.
Lyons
  5.10a
Jeff G.   Lyons
  5.10a
Excellent climbing. Quite hard for 5.9+. Jul 28, 2018