Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 142 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Another little moderate that is a slightly spicier version of Lick my Plate just right of the same on the Trojan Bunny Buttress. This little route ascends the inviting lower angled West-facing slab of the crag and goes to and past the spot marked "4" on the picture.

Start in corner & angle left or up face to left to crack. You can place an optional belay on gear here. Wander right of line of Lick My Plate on more runout terrain. Find a slab crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. It gets looser and more fractured in its upper parts. Pass a small roof on its right just before the top with a fixed wire. Probably S or R or PG-13 at least. 0 of 5 stars by both Rolofson & Hubbel. 0.89 stars here :)

Double rope rappel.

Protection

4 bolts, gear.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
You can finish up and right under the large roof, out right under it on good gear (first knuckle cams) and then pull the roof into a corner and then up and left to a mantle to an additional set of anchors further up top and left. This is 5.10 (10-something).

To rap from those, a single 70m rope gets you down to the big tree, which we replaced the old shitty webing on with 2 new bads today- the old stuff was so old that the tree had outgrown it- so tight that it had a "ping" tone if you flicked it, and crispy. The tree can breathe again, but the green sling (quite old) will need to go, too. There are 2 new slings and someone with a sharper knife can take down the nasty old on remaining. Oct 1, 2006