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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett and Fred Knapp, 2008
Page Views: 1,462 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Sep 7, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route starts 80 feet off the ground. Climb the right-hand (easier) version of Bruise Collector (step right six feet to another anchor) or climb Europithacus. Start with three bolts of desperate crimping on a high-angle slab-prow. Continue more easily up the shallow prow, placing small to medium cams in the dihedral to the right. Step right and climb a left-slanting intermittent crack (harder than it looks, so don't skip any pro) to reach the next bolt. Hard moves past this bolt gain a wild zigzagging line through roofs, passing three more bolts. This entire second crux is tricky, pumpy, and wild. Two raps to the ground.

I'll go with Bernard's 5.11a rating, but consider this an Eldo grade because this climb feels like a trad route despite seven bolts. If it were in Boulder Canyon, the grade might be considerably higher.

This is the best new pitch I've done on the Front Range in a year or two. A real testament to Mr. Gillett's vision and hard work.

Protection

Seven bolts plus a rack from sub-finger to hand size. A couple of slings will reduce rope drag.

Photos

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Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
Fantastic vision by Mr. Gillett and Mr. Knapp. This pitch exemplifies the adventurous feel of climbing in the St. Vrain with awesome position and great movement on terrain that keeps you thinking. I found it to be pumpy in spots but never desperate...more a test of fancy footwork and stemming. Highly recommended! Oct 25, 2015
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11d
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11d
Great pitch! But closer to 11d than 11a. Aug 6, 2015
Bob Rotert
  5.11
Bob Rotert  
  5.11
Revisited and led this today. Maybe some thing has changed since the FA put an 11a rating on it? Really cool climbing! Seemed definitely harder than 11a. Also, you have to do a solid 11 pitch to get to it so don't know how it comes in at 11- to begin with. Amazing climbing up through the stepped roofs. Sep 20, 2014
Bob Rotert
  5.11
Bob Rotert  
  5.11
I visited this cliff for the first time last weekend and was really impressed with the great climbing here. We did this route, and it is indeed wild and awesome! One of the best on the cliff. I followed this one, and it felt a little harder than 11- to me. I like the Boulder Canyon comment Dougal posted above. \;o) He said, '"This would probably be 11d in Boulder Canyon. " Oct 3, 2010