Unicorn Tower

This is certainly not Ceuse three star quality, but it is a great route by South Saint Vrain standards. 

Begin with Goldshut Arete. Put a long sling on bolt six, and move left up to a jug. From here, intricate, technical, and often inobvious climbing angles left through a seam to an awkward rest below the roof. A boulder problem finale out the roof leads to horizontal jugs in a crack. Step right easily onto Sonata. Clip one bolt on Sonata before finding a hidden anchor just above on the left side of the arete.

Thanks and love to my daughter Hera for naming the route, helping with work on the approach trail, and a unicorn-tastic! paint job on some of the hangers, and to Herm for the good company and support.

Some notes:

A double draw on bolt eight allows you to stretch up and clip from the jug, avoiding a mid-crux clip.

Put a double draw on bolt ten to reduce drag.

There is a permadraw at the roof.

There is a fair bit of rope drag as you join Sonata, but fortunately the climbing is easy.

I climbed directly on the bolt line through the final roof, but it may be possible to cheat right onto Sonata a little earlier. This could be a bit easier, but that wouldn't change the grade, since there's a no hands rest before the roof. Expect it to be a bit dirty if you do this.

It's possible to equip most of the route as you lower off Sonata or Goldshut Arete.

Start with Goldshut Arete on the right side of Trojan Bunny Buttress.

~15 draws.