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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 865 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

A fun little moderate on the Trojan Bunny Buttress. This little route ascends the inviting lower-angled, west-facing slab of the crag and goes to the spot marked "3" on the picture.

Start in corner & angle left or up face to left to crack. This first bit is easy, perhaps 5.4. You can place an optional belay at the tree on gear here. Continue up the slab with horizontal weaknesses past 4 bolts. There is a bit of looser & fractured rock near the top. It is probably PG-13 for a 5.8 leader and probably better than the 0 stars by Rolofson and 1 of 5 stars by Hubbel. 1.35 stars here :). But hey, it's all fun, eh?

Either a double rope rap from the 2 bolt anchor at the top or a pair of short raps (gear?) or a 25m rap to down climbable terrain.

Protection

4 bolts, light rack.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
You can finish up and right under the large roof, out right under it on good gear (first knuckle cams) and then pull the roof into a corner and then up and left to a mantle to an additional set of anchors further up top and left. This is 5.10 (10-something).

To rap from those, a single 70m rope gets you down to the big tree, which we replaced the old shitty webing on with 2 new bads today- the old stuff was so old that the tree had outgrown it- so tight that it had a "ping" tone if you flicked it, and crispy. The tree can breathe again, but the green sling (quite old) will need to go, too. There are 2 new slings, and someone with a sharper knife can take down the nasty old on remaining. Oct 1, 2006
Dan Howell
Northglenn, CO
 
Dan Howell   Northglenn, CO
 
Climbed this on 9-17-06 and found that several holds on the last section had broken off. Still, probably didn't change the rating. If you look for the thin holds, they are there. Lots of debris comes down the route when it is windy. Sep 18, 2006