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Areas in Animal World

Lower Animal World 14 / 21 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Middle Animal World 4 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Upper Animal World 3 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The Lower Animal World crag contains a good selection of bolted sport routes, as well as a handful of moderate crack climbs. Middle Animal World has a good mix of difficulties on high-quality routes on a beautiful ledge.  Further to the east, the Upper Animal World cliff contains about 15 superb bolted sport climbs, with most falling in the 5.11-5.12+ range. A few will require either two ropes to get down, or need to be done a couple of pitches (bolted belay stations are provided for these climbs). The rock quality is fantastic, and all of the routes are well bolted and are of the highest quality.

L->R:

Lower Animal World
A. Aardvark, 9-, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
B1. Crack Corner, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
B2 or C. Triple Play, 10a, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
D. Animal Riots Activist, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Piles of Trials, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Automatic Choke, 12. 1p, 50', gear.
G. Cannabis Sportiva, 10, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
H. Old Dihedral, 8, 1p, 45', gear.
I. Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food), 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
J. Joint Venture, 11-, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
above I & J. Beast Food Left, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
above I & J.. Beast Food Right, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
K. Gull Whackers, 8, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
L. Animation, 8, 1p, 100', originally gear, now bolts.
M. Familiar Strangers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
N. Unfamiliar Stranger, 9, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.

O. Cold Snap, 11-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
P. Free Willie, 11-, 1p, <100', bolts.
Q. Days of Future Passed, 12-, 1p, <100', bolts, fixed pro.
R. Threshold Of A Dream, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
S. Nice To Be Here, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Reversal Roof, 13-, 1p, bolts.
U. Lovely to See You, 12, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
V. Tuesday Afternoon, 11, 1p, 75', bolts.
W. Melancholy Man, 11, 1p, 75', bolts & sling.
X. Is It Ready Yet...Moe, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Y. We Don't Do Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
Z. Lazy Day, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
AA. Dihedral, 7, 2-3p, gear.
BB. Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
CC. Geritol Generation, 9-, 50', gear.

Middle Animal World:
DD.. Ride My See-saw, 10-, 80', gear & bolts.
EE. Wine & Roses, 10+, 60', gear.
FF. Talking Out Of Turn, 10-, 1-2p, 115', bolts.
GG1. Split Personality, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
GG2. Isn't Life Strange, 11, 2p, 105', bolts.
HH. POS or P2 of Dihedral, 7, 2p, gear.
II. Crack, 1p, gear.
JJ. Strange Times, 10+, 60', gear & bolts.
KK. The Balance, 11-, 75', gear & bolts.
LL. Hope and Pray, 8, 60', gear & bolts.

Upper Animal World
A. Krakatoa, 10, 2p, gear.
B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
BC. The Fifth Destiny, 12+, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.

Getting There

There are two ways to reach the Animal World cliffs. Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), and walk up to the base of the Boulderado cliff. From the left (West) side of the Boulderado follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right. Take this right turn (it should lead you above and behind the Boulderado cliff), until you see the Lower Animal World cliff up on your left.

To reach the Upper Animal World cliff, continue along the base of the Lower cliff (towards the right side of it) until you reach its end. The Upper cliff lies uphill and to the right of the Lower cliff. The upper cliff is almost 200 feet tall, and faces downhill.

A different approach can be made by walking right from the base of the Boulderado for 75 yards before heading straight uphill to the Upper cliff. Be EXTREMELY careful not to knock loose rocks down to the highway below, and while you're at it, try not to let yourself fall down onto the road either.

Per Nathan Kofahl: the parking area may be found with GPS coordinates:

39.9976515 / -105.416491 and viewed here.

54 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Animal World Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Animal World

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 686
Animation
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 365
Unfamiliar Strangers
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 192
Is It Ready Yet...Moe
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 172
Talking Out Of Turn
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 181
Cannabis Sportiva
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 305
Joint Venture
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 539
Free Willie
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 90
Isn't Life Strange
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 242
Animal Magnetism
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 173
Animal Riots Activist
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 206
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 51
Piles of Trials
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 87
Global Gorilla
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 66
Animal Instinct
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 51
Hands of Destiny
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Animation Lower Animal World
 686
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Unfamiliar Strangers Lower Animal World
 365
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Is It Ready Yet...Moe Lower Animal World
 192
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Talking Out Of Turn Middle Animal World
 172
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cannabis Sportiva Lower Animal World
 181
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Joint Venture Lower Animal World
 305
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Free Willie Lower Animal World
 539
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Isn't Life Strange Middle Animal World
 90
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Animal Magnetism Upper Animal World
 242
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Animal Riots Activist Lower Animal World
 173
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Days of Future Passed aka O… Lower Animal World
 206
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Piles of Trials Lower Animal World
 51
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Global Gorilla Upper Animal World
 87
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Animal Instinct Upper Animal World
 66
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Hands of Destiny Upper Animal World
 51
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Animal World »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
When you are walking up to Animal World there is another small crag about 50 feet above the trail when the trail heads right over the top of Boulderado.

The rock has about 5 lines. The two middle ones share an anchor, the left is probably 9+ or 10 - and the right side is probably 12. Off to the right is an easy route, probably 5.6 The routes are maybe 35 - 40 ft high.

Does anyone know if these routes are on this site? They're not stellar, but not too bad. Jun 7, 2005
ac
ac  
Mine Hole Crag, it is on this site. Jun 8, 2005
The harder one was put up by Jim Hone and goes at 11d. He showed this route to me when I first moved to Boulder 4 years ago. I suspect he put up the other routes as well. Jun 8, 2005
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Look for those routes under "Mine Hole Crag". They are all reasonably enjoyable, with the 5.12 beyond my current limits. Make sure you finish off the visit with the 5.8 crack on the right. :)_ Jun 8, 2005
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
I guess I made the same mistake as others here and went to Mine Hole Crag while looking for lower Animal World.

Lower Animal World is pretty much directly above and to the right of Boulderado. We initially went too far up and were traversing above Lower Animal World... To get to that crag, take the right just as you get to the top of Boulderado (I thought that right was just for the getting to the anchors of Boulderado and continued on...) Now that I know the way, it is only a 5 minute walk in, but I can see how people can easily go too far up. Jul 3, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Blockhead is between I. and J. Jul 15, 2009
S. Neoh  
We will be first-time visitors to Boulder Canyon. For whatever reason, this crag has "animal appeal". Does it get shade in the morning or late afternoon this time of the year (summer), and what are the sporto must-dos here, between .9 and .12b?
Many thanks for any and all beta! Aug 25, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
^^^ @ S. Noah.

AW left side (which is the side that contains some moderates), gets a lot of sun pretty much all day because its largely south-facing. IMHO, it's pretty warm this time of year, but that certainly doesn't stop people from climbing there. The far right side (which contains the classic 11-12 range climbs) gets morning sun and afternoon shade because it's east-facing. Pretty much everything on the far right side is awesome and worth getting on. Hope that helps. Aug 28, 2017
slim    
If you get up early, the left side gets shade for quite a while, up around Animal Riots Activist. Then you can swing all of the way around to the right side for afternoon shade. Aug 28, 2017
S. Neoh  
Thanks to everyone who provided valuable sun/shade information, incl. Leo who PM'ed me. What we ended up doing was spending half of the day at Avalon, with a long lunch, and then climbed at Animation and to the right of it. As mentioned above, lots of great routes in this sector. Very enjoyable way to end our trip to CO, and we will be back :)
We also feel very grateful to those who had kept the hw up-to-date and safe. No nasty 3/8" spinners to be found on anything we came across. Sep 3, 2017
Dylan Houser
Boulder, Colorado
Dylan Houser   Boulder, Colorado
ROCK FALL: minor rock fall at the top quarter of the scramble up to Middle Animal World. There is a microwave-sized block and a few football-sized blocks that are extremely insecure and will come loose with the flick of a finger.

BE EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS hiking up and down! Nov 10, 2017
Andy Renz
Boulder, Colorado
Andy Renz   Boulder, Colorado
When the beta says take the right for Lower Animal World, walk maybe 5 minutes after you turn. If you don't walk very far, you may end up at the Mine Hole Crag (which is were you end up if you continue straight). You walk for those 5 minutes and drop down to get to Lower Animal World. Nov 21, 2017
David A
Stockholm, Sweden
David A   Stockholm, Sweden
Just a heads up...the sheriff was out in full force today ticketing illegally parked cars along the northside of the highway ($35). The "No Parking signs" are not very noticeable or obvious, so make sure to double check when you park if you don't want to deal with the hassle of a parking ticket. Jun 3, 2018

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