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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 7,461 ft
GPS: 39.998, -105.415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 142,444 total · 676/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The Lower Animal World crag contains a good selection of bolted sport routes, as well as a handful of moderate crack climbs. The upper Animal World cliff contains about 15 superb bolted sport climbs, with most falling in the 5.11-5.12+ range. A few will require either two ropes to get down, or need to be done a couple of pitches (bolted belay stations are provided for these climbs). The rock quality is fantastic, and all of the routes are well bolted and are of the highest quality. The cliff is divided into two sides by an arete, and most of the climbs lie on the left side.

L->R:

Lower Cliff
A. Aardvark, 9-, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
B1. Crack Corner, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
B2 or C. Triple Play, 10a, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
D. Animal Riots Activist, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Piles of Trials, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Automatic Choke, 12. 1p, 50', gear.
G. Cannabis Sportiva, 10, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
H. Old Dihedral, 8, 1p, 45', gear.
I. Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food), 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
J. Joint Venture, 11-, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
above I & J. Beast Food Left, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
above I & J.. Beast Food Right, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
K. Gull Whackers, 8, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
L. Animation, 8, 1p, 100', originally gear, now bolts.
M. Familiar Strangers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
N. Unfamiliar Stranger, 9, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.

O. Cold Snap, 11-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
P. Free Willie, 11-, 1p, <100', bolts.
Q. Days of Future Passed, 12-, 1p, <100', bolts, fixed pro.
R. Threshold Of A Dream, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
S. Nice To Be Here, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Reversal Roof, 13-, 1p, bolts.
U. Lovely to See You, 12, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
V. Tuesday Afternoon, 11, 1p, 75', bolts.
W. Melancholy Man, 11, 1p, 75', bolts & sling.
X. Is It Ready Yet...Moe, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Y. We Don't Do Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
Z. Lazy Day, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
AA. Dihedral, 7, 2-3p, gear.
BB. Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
CC. Geritol Generation, 9-, 50', gear.

Above AA and ...:
DD.. Ride My See-saw, 10-, 80', gear & bolts.
EE. Wine & Roses, 10+, 60', gear.
FF. Talking Out Of Turn, 10-, 1-2p, 115', bolts.
GG1. Split Personality, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
GG2. Isn't Life Strange, 11, 2p, 105', bolts.
HH. POS or P2 of Dihedral, 7, 2p, gear.
II. Crack, 1p, gear.
JJ. Strange Times, 10+, 60', gear & bolts.
KK. The Balance, 11-, 75', gear & bolts.
LL. Hope and Pray, 8, 60', gear & bolts.

Upper Cliff
A. Krakatoa, 10, 2p, gear.
B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
BC. The Fifth Destiny, 12+, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.

Getting There

There are two ways to reach the Animal World cliffs. Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), and walk up to the base of the Boulderado cliff. From the left (West) side of the Boulderado follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right. Take this right turn (it should lead you above and behind the Boulderado cliff), until you see the Lower Animal World cliff up on your left.

To reach the Upper Animal World cliff, continue along the base of the Lower cliff (towards the right side of it) until you reach its end. The Upper cliff lies uphill and to the right of the Lower cliff. The upper cliff is almost 200 feet tall, and faces downhill.

A different approach can be made by walking right from the base of the Boulderado for 75 yards before heading straight uphill to the Upper cliff. Be EXTREMELY careful not to knock loose rocks down to the highway below, and while you're at it, try not to let yourself fall down onto the road either.

Per Nathan Kofahl: the parking area may be found with GPS coordinates:

39.9976515 / -105.416491 and viewed here.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Animal World

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 656
Animation
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 353
Unfamiliar Strangers
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 186
Is It Ready Yet...Moe
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 167
Talking Out Of Turn
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 173
Cannabis Sportiva
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 291
Joint Venture
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 515
Free Willie
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 90
Isn't Life Strange
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 237
Animal Magnetism
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 166
Animal Riots Activist
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 198
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Piles of Trials
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 84
Global Gorilla
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 66
Animal Instinct
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 50
Hands of Destiny
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Animation
 656
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Unfamiliar Strangers
 353
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Is It Ready Yet...Moe
 186
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Talking Out Of Turn
 167
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cannabis Sportiva
 173
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Joint Venture
 291
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Free Willie
 515
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Isn't Life Strange
 90
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Animal Magnetism
 237
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Animal Riots Activist
 166
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Days of Future Passed aka O…
 198
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Piles of Trials
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Global Gorilla
 84
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Animal Instinct
 66
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Hands of Destiny
 50
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Animal World »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I have seen very serious accidents on these bends caused by rockfall. While the chances are these were due to natural causes, it's not worth the risk. Take the usual approach, and save someone's life. Apr 24, 2003
When you are walking up to Animal World there is another small crag about 50 feet above the trail when the trail heads right over the top of Boulderado.

The rock has about 5 lines. The two middle ones share an anchor, the left is probably 9+ or 10 - and the right side is probably 12. Off to the right is an easy route, probably 5.6 The routes are maybe 35 - 40 ft high.

Does anyone know if these routes are on this site? They're not stellar, but not too bad. Jun 7, 2005
ac
ac  
Mine Hole Crag, it is on this site. Jun 8, 2005
The harder one was put up by Jim Hone and goes at 11d. He showed this route to me when I first moved to Boulder 4 years ago. I suspect he put up the other routes as well. Jun 8, 2005
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Look for those routes under "Mine Hole Crag". They are all reasonably enjoyable, with the 5.12 beyond my current limits. Make sure you finish off the visit with the 5.8 crack on the right. :)_ Jun 8, 2005
I looked up "Mine Hole Crag"... the route I was referring to is a different one: "Ruff Roof". Apparently there are more climbs up there than I thought. Jun 8, 2005
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
I guess I made the same mistake as others here and went to Mine Hole Crag while looking for lower Animal World.

Lower Animal World is pretty much directly above and to the right of Boulderado. We initially went too far up and were traversing above Lower Animal World... To get to that crag, take the right just as you get to the top of Boulderado (I thought that right was just for the getting to the anchors of Boulderado and continued on...) Now that I know the way, it is only a 5 minute walk in, but I can see how people can easily go too far up. Jul 3, 2008
Lost my Canon point 'n' shoot up there on 3/7/09. If you found it can, you call Lukas at 720-381-8159 or drop it by Neptune's Mountaineering.
cheers Mar 9, 2009
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
To the Admin-
It's nice the way the Animal World home page is organized w/ all the routes listed starting from one side of the cliff, even if there isn't a pg. specifically for every route. It helps immensely when trying to figure out the overall layout of the area. It would be great if more of the pages describing an area were organized this way.
Just my 2cents worth.
cheers, BA Apr 14, 2009
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Blockhead is between I. and J. Jul 15, 2009
Adamatrix
Boulder, CO
Adamatrix   Boulder, CO
Left a rope on top of the Boulderado Wall under the large pine tree, after climbing at Animal World. Anybody pick it up Tuesday July 12 2011? Any info, please email adamatrix1@gmail. Jul 18, 2011
Ben Weisman
Boulder, CO
Ben Weisman   Boulder, CO
Hey I found a pair of small Skigear snow/rain pants on the approach to Animal World last Thursday. Let me know what name is on the tag, and I'll get them back to you! Sep 23, 2012
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
Found: pair of reading glasses at the crag, looks like they may have been there for a couple weeks.... Jun 14, 2013
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
I found a belay device at Lower Animal World on May 26. Describe it and I'll get it back to you. May 26, 2014
Pete Stein
Steamboat Springs, Colorado
Pete Stein   Steamboat Springs, Colorado
Found 1 green and grey US 6 Cypher lace up shoe on lower portion of AW approach on 6/30. Leaving town 7/3. I'll leave it in the Movement lost and found if not contacted today. masonjarmusic[at}gmail.com Jul 2, 2014
LOST--silver Grigri at Animal World in Boulder Canyon mid-October. Text me at 760-920-7106 if found--thanks! Nov 14, 2015
Hey folks,

If you're headed out to climb at Animal World this weekend, would you mind keeping an eye out for my wedding ring? I lost it this afternoon (Friday, June 3rd) while climbing at the lower cliffs, and I think it fell out of my pack on the descent. It's a gold band that looks like three twigs wound together.

Bottle of whiskey to anyone who finds it!

>>

Thanks!!!
Anneliese - 607.232.3278, anneliese.steel@gmail.com
Jun 3, 2016
FOUND: belay device by base of Animal Food. Please email a description of the device to mgerken86@gmail.com, and I'll get that right back to you!

We apologize profusely if our pack placement caused any confusion! Nov 21, 2016
S. Neoh  
We will be first-time visitors to Boulder Canyon. For whatever reason, this crag has "animal appeal". Does it get shade in the morning or late afternoon this time of the year (summer), and what are the sporto must-dos here, between .9 and .12b?
Many thanks for any and all beta! Aug 25, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
^^^ @ S. Noah.

AW left side (which is the side that contains some moderates), gets a lot of sun pretty much all day because its largely south-facing. IMHO, it's pretty warm this time of year, but that certainly doesn't stop people from climbing there. The far right side (which contains the classic 11-12 range climbs) gets morning sun and afternoon shade because it's east-facing. Pretty much everything on the far right side is awesome and worth getting on. Hope that helps. Aug 28, 2017
slim    
If you get up early, the left side gets shade for quite a while, up around Animal Riots Activist. Then you can swing all of the way around to the right side for afternoon shade. Aug 28, 2017
S. Neoh  
Thanks to everyone who provided valuable sun/shade information, incl. Leo who PM'ed me. What we ended up doing was spending half of the day at Avalon, with a long lunch, and then climbed at Animation and to the right of it. As mentioned above, lots of great routes in this sector. Very enjoyable way to end our trip to CO, and we will be back :)
We also feel very grateful to those who had kept the hw up-to-date and safe. No nasty 3/8" spinners to be found on anything we came across. Sep 3, 2017
Hello! I left a pair of Miura VSs size 36.5 at Animal World on Saturday. We were over on the far right side before middle Animal World. If anyone happens to find them, please call or text (978) 821-1378. I'll buy you a six pack if you find them!! Oct 1, 2017
EricR
Nederland
EricR   Nederland
I left my watch up there on 10/5. If anyone finds it, please call. It is pretty important to me.

Thanks so much!!

Eric 916-201-9475 Oct 7, 2017
Rhonda
Golden, CO
Rhonda   Golden, CO
Found a helmet at Animal World on 10/22/17. Describe it, and I will get it back to you. Oct 23, 2017
Dylan Houser
Boulder, Colorado
Dylan Houser   Boulder, Colorado
ROCK FALL: minor rock fall at the top quarter of the scramble up to Middle Animal World. There is a microwave-sized block and a few football-sized blocks that are extremely insecure and will come loose with the flick of a finger.

BE EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS hiking up and down! Nov 10, 2017
Andy Renz
Boulder, Colorado
Andy Renz   Boulder, Colorado
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017
Andy Renz
Boulder, Colorado
Andy Renz   Boulder, Colorado
When the beta says take the right for Lower Animal World, walk maybe 5 minutes after you turn. If you don't walk very far, you may end up at the Mine Hole Crag (which is were you end up if you continue straight). You walk for those 5 minutes and drop down to get to Lower Animal World. Nov 21, 2017
Chris Neal
Fort Collins, CO
Chris Neal   Fort Collins, CO
I lost a couple black sweaters here today. I think I left them draped on a bush at the bottom of Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello. I'll be back in Boulder this Monday (March 5th)- if there's any chance I could pick them up then or another time, I'd be very appreciative. (719) 640-3481 Mar 3, 2018
Left black and blue jackets at the base of Free Willie today...would love to get em back. (310) 600-8347 Mar 3, 2018
We are missing some draws and are pretty sure we left them up at Animal World by the base of Animal Instinct and Sundog. If you were there this past Saturday and happened to grab them, let me know! (If you were the group who cleaned them off of Sundog for us, please contact me as they never found their way back to us). Thanks so much! Kristen.moree@gmail.com. Mar 4, 2018

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