Elevation: 7,461 ft
GPS: 39.998, -105.415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 212,863 total · 907/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by Nathan Kofahl and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

The Lower Animal World crag contains a good selection of bolted sport routes, as well as a handful of moderate crack climbs. Middle Animal World has a good mix of difficulties on high-quality routes on a beautiful ledge.  Further to the east, the Upper Animal World cliff contains about 15 superb bolted sport climbs, with most falling in the 5.11-5.12+ range. A few will require either two ropes to get down, or need to be done a couple of pitches (bolted belay stations are provided for these climbs). The rock quality is fantastic, and all of the routes are well bolted and are of the highest quality.

L->R:

Lower Animal World
A. Aardvark, 9-, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
B1. Crack Corner, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
B2 or C. Triple Play, 10a, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
D. Animal Riots Activist, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Piles of Trials, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Automatic Choke, 12. 1p, 50', gear.
G. Cannabis Sportiva, 10, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
H. Old Dihedral, 8, 1p, 45', gear.
I. Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food), 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
J. Joint Venture, 11-, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
above I & J. Beast Food Left, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
above I & J.. Beast Food Right, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
K. Gull Whackers, 8, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
L. Animation, 8, 1p, 100', originally gear, now bolts.
M. Familiar Strangers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
N. Unfamiliar Stranger, 9, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.

O. Cold Snap, 11-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
P. Free Willie, 11-, 1p, <100', bolts.
Q. Days of Future Passed, 12-, 1p, <100', bolts, fixed pro.
R. Threshold Of A Dream, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
S. Nice To Be Here, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Reversal Roof, 13-, 1p, bolts.
U. Lovely to See You, 12, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
V. Tuesday Afternoon, 11, 1p, 75', bolts.
W. Melancholy Man, 11, 1p, 75', bolts & sling.
X. Is It Ready Yet...Moe, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Y. We Don't Do Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
Z. Lazy Day, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
AA. Dihedral, 7, 2-3p, gear.
BB. Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
CC. Geritol Generation, 9-, 50', gear.

Middle Animal World:
DD.. Ride My See-saw, 10-, 80', gear & bolts.
EE. Wine & Roses, 10+, 60', gear.
FF. Talking Out Of Turn, 10-, 1-2p, 115', bolts.
GG1. Split Personality, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
GG2. Isn't Life Strange, 11, 2p, 105', bolts.
HH. POS or P2 of Dihedral, 7, 2p, gear.
II. Crack, 1p, gear.
JJ. Strange Times, 10+, 60', gear & bolts.
KK. The Balance, 11-, 75', gear & bolts.
LL. Hope and Pray, 8, 60', gear & bolts.

Upper Animal World
A. Krakatoa, 10, 2p, gear.
B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
BC. The Fifth Destiny, 12+, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.

Getting There

There are two ways to reach the Animal World cliffs. Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), and walk up to the base of the Boulderado cliff. From the left (West) side of the Boulderado follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right. Take this right turn (it should lead you above and behind the Boulderado cliff), until you see the Lower Animal World cliff up on your left.

To reach the Upper Animal World cliff, continue along the base of the Lower cliff (towards the right side of it) until you reach its end. The Upper cliff lies uphill and to the right of the Lower cliff. The upper cliff is almost 200 feet tall, and faces downhill.

A different approach can be made by walking right from the base of the Boulderado for 75 yards before heading straight uphill to the Upper cliff. Be EXTREMELY careful not to knock loose rocks down to the highway below, and while you're at it, try not to let yourself fall down onto the road either.

Per Nathan Kofahl: the parking area may be found with GPS coordinates:

39.9976515 / -105.416491 and viewed here.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Animal World

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 802
Animation
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 430
Unfamiliar Strangers
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 219
Is It Ready Yet...Moe
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 208
Talking Out Of Turn
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 204
Cannabis Sportiva
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 342
Joint Venture
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 628
Free Willie
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 110
Isn't Life Strange
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 286
Animal Magnetism
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 203
Animal Riots Activist
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 260
Days of Future Passed aka Our Fu…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 62
Piles of Trials
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 93
Global Gorilla
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 72
Animal Instinct
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 69
Hands of Destiny
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Animation Lower Animal World
 802
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Unfamiliar Strangers Lower Animal World
 430
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Is It Ready Yet...Moe Lower Animal World
 219
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Talking Out Of Turn Middle Animal World
 208
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cannabis Sportiva Lower Animal World
 204
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Joint Venture Lower Animal World
 342
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Free Willie Lower Animal World
 628
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Isn't Life Strange Middle Animal World
 110
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Animal Magnetism Upper Animal World
 286
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Animal Riots Activist Lower Animal World
 203
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Days of Future Passed aka O… Lower Animal World
 260
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Piles of Trials Lower Animal World
 62
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Global Gorilla Upper Animal World
 93
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Animal Instinct Upper Animal World
 72
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Hands of Destiny Upper Animal World
 69
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Animal World »

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