Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 10,513 ft 3,204 m
GPS: 40.30313, -105.52413
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,034 total · 144/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 10, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is one of the biggest rocks of the The Crags along with the Upper Great Face. This lies on the right south side of the Crags. This crag contains routes up to 4 pitches. It seemed faintly reminiscent of an easier version of Deer Ridge Buttress. Certainly, this is one of the rocks that catches your eye looking at this collection of rocks from CO Hwy 7 or the Lily Lake area. Abundant in holds and full of dihedrals, there are more lines to be done for trad climbers. There are moments when you can imagine yourself slightly higher in the park on a big sibling of this rock, Hallett Peak. Broader than tall, this crag is split into 2 main faces by the Central Buttress, a blunt arete, rising from the nadir of the face. Subsequent to the original posting, Castaway Crag and Wizard's Gate were combined under this one crag, since they are really subsections of this larger crag.

Descents from the top are best made by skirting the North side of the crag on a mix of trail and boulders. Some of the other shorter routes can be rappelled.

Getting There Suggest change

From Estes, drive South on CO Hwy 7 to the Lily Lake visitor center, and turn left (East) onto a gravel road that leads to the Twin Sisters Trailhead. Follow the Twin Sisters trail for about 10 minutes until you reach the 3rd switchback. At this switchback, go straight ahead, and leave the trail and go into the woods on a path that is clearly visible. Follow the path as it leads upward through the forested hillside and enters wooded talus. As you follow the path upward through the talus, you can look up and see the Central Buttress on the Lower Great Face above. Hike/scramble/boulder hop upward until you reach the Central Buttress of the Lower Great Face. From here, the Wizard's Gate area is just to the left, and Castaway is further left. Plan on 45 min to reach the Central Buttress.

A general map: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/107046958..

An approach diagram: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117399850.

Oh yeah, based upon the signage, this area may be open to hunters in the fall. Think bright.

Per Jonathan Siegrist: across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress, and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace. 

EMS kit & Stokes litter info

Suggest change

On August 11, 2022, an EMS kit and Stokes litter were placed at The Crags as a resource for emergency medical situations. The EMS kit and litter are located next to a tree in the talus below Wizard’s Gate (elevation 10,140 feet., GPS coordinates: 40.30285N, 105.52467W). The location is approximately 300 feet North of the route, Wizard’s Path. The EMS kit contains emergency contacts, diagnostic devices, bandages, and splints but no medications or narcotics of any kind. Please respect this resource, and use it for emergencies only and not for routine medical purposes. In the event of an emergency and use of any materials and supplies in the EMS kit, please contact the current custodian, Bob Siegrist and the EMS kit will be restocked (email: siegrist@mines.edu, cell: 303.359.8427).

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/122976744.

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/122976747.

49 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Lower Great Face Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Great Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 189
Return of the King
Sport 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
The Once and Future King
Sport 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Merlin's Magic Corner
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 165
Wizard's Path
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 80
The White Raven
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 104
The Guillotine
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 89
Take Me to Your Leader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 142
The Gatekeeper
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 41
Book of Spells
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 31
Afterlife
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 57
Magic Dagger
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Book of Daggers
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 25
Cloak and Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 14
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 7
Black Magic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Return of the King C. Wizard's Gate
 189
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
The Once and Future King C. Wizard's Gate
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
Merlin's Magic Corner C. Wizard's Gate
 45
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wizard's Path C. Wizard's Gate
 165
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The White Raven C. Wizard's Gate
 80
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
The Guillotine C. Wizard's Gate
 104
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Take Me to Your Leader C. Wizard's Gate
 89
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Gatekeeper C. Wizard's Gate
 142
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Book of Spells C. Wizard's Gate
 41
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Afterlife C. Wizard's Gate
 31
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Magic Dagger C. Wizard's Gate
 57
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Book of Daggers C. Wizard's Gate
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cloak and Dagger C. Wizard's Gate
 25
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Magic Carpet Ride C. Wizard's Gate
 14
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Black Magic C. Wizard's Gate
 7
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Great Face »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading