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Routes in Der Zerkle

Absolution (submitted as Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
April Fools S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bar None S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Der Fuhrer TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face Right/Der Zerkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeling Lucky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Solution T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Ending T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall (submitted as Absolution) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knot Carrot S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Beginnings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ribspuren T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southeast Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sunny Side One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunny Side Two T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Touch Monkey S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Clucks From Saigon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Face [Der Zerkle] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
What If You're Not? T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wing Ding S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Paul Glover
Page Views: 2,105 total, 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 28, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Another fun little sport climb in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. This route ascends inviting huecos up a slightly bulging face in the Court, an alcove on the South side of Der Zerkle, a short way past Square Rock. From NCAR, hike up the Mallory Cave Trail until this route is visible on your right.

Power up a fun, slightly-bulging wall with a dihedral and roof past 3 bolts and left to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Touch Monkey). There is a loose flake here. This route felt slightly committing for a sport climb. Just to the left of this route is another slightly harder, bolted route, Touch Monkey.

Protection

3 QDs for 3 bolts and slings for the anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Chris Rinaldo
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Rinaldo   Boulder, CO
 
After pulling through the roof there are some stopper placements out left (#3-5). I traversed to the last bolt on Touch Monkey and then straight to the anchors. With the stopper in place, this felt very safe. Sep 21, 2012
From the good sidepull right of the first bolt, I reached way up and right, past the chalked crimp (where the flake broke off?), to a chalkless slanting rail. From it, I could reach into the top of the dihedral and then the undercling. Clipping the second bolt is unnecessarily committing, unless you pre-hang a long sling from it. Do TM first. Jun 11, 2012
Said Parirokh
Redlands, Ca
 
Said Parirokh   Redlands, Ca
 
The flake housing the right hand crimp of the crux (between 1st and 2nd bolt) came off today. It still goes with little change in difficulty of the maneuver. May 2, 2010
I only found two bolts on this. We went to the top, placing a few pieces on the way, then traversed to the anchors on Touch Monkey. It made the whole endeavor safe, but a bit perplexing. Jul 5, 2009
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
  5.10d PG13
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
  5.10d PG13
The bolts seemed like they were in a good spots that were quite reachable. If you look to the right on the crux moves, there is an excellent jug that makes the crux much easier. If you're blinded by chalk, then this hold will be invisible. The traverse left from the second bolt looked pretty scary, so we went straight up instead and placed a medium stopper at the ridge at the top. Aug 25, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I thought this route was harder than Touch Monkey and certainly more committing. You have to stretch to make the first clip with a bad landing and then to exit the dihedral is tough. Further up, you have to climb some moves while you are pumped just to reach the next bolts. Fun no less, but a more serious undertaking than its nearby neighbors. Jun 7, 2006
XOG
XOG  
I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best possible manner - just that this gear is new and as yet completely unused. Feb 14, 2005
XOG
XOG  
As of Feb. 13th, Knot Carrot has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed. Feb 14, 2005
The responsible party was doing some maintenance on these routes by replacing old rusted bolts that were installed without the use of epoxy in the 1980s.

These bolts unscrew from a sleeve that is in the rock and do not require any pry bar or other lever to remove them. There has been no damage to natural or climbing resources. Although, it is clear that the intentions were good (as the old bolts were rusted and unsafe), the responsible party has been informed that a "Notification for Bolt Replacement" form must be obtained from the City OSMP to do this. This can be obtained online at ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/…

At this point, it would be possible to simply screw the old bolts back into the rusted anchor sleeves and restore the climbs. However, a "Notification for Bolt Replacement" will be submitted to OSMP and the maintenance on these routes may be completed. If you are interested in assiting with the replacement, stay tuned. Dec 20, 2004