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Routes in Bulletheads, Central

Bullethead East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulletheads Central T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chimp Dip T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Krimo Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liquid Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Marooned T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride the Bullet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Peter Croft and Tami Knight, 1980
Page Views: 255 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Aug 26, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Start on some face moves up to the crack (despite initial appearance the moves are trivial until your first piece of protection.) A short and powerful sequence leads up to some body-weight fingerlocks, followed by a bouldery mantle and some technical movement to a no-hands rest at the perpendicular crack. Engaging 5.10 fingerlocks take you through the top half as the grade eventually eases off.

Location

About three or four minutes north of Liquid Gold, if you reach South-South-Gully you went too far. Look for a right-trending finger crack that begins ten feet off the ground above a featured face.

Protection

Doubles from blue Metolius to red C4. Optional gold C4. Bolts and a rap ring at the top.

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Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.11 PG13
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.11 PG13
The first gear placement is at the crux about 15 feet off the ground and is a very tough and not so good placement in a flaring crack.

Harder for big fingers. Jul 16, 2018

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