Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Becky in the 60s (P1-P2?), Recleaned 2011
Page Views: 11,229 total · 90/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 6, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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A great, reclaimed route at the Bulletheads. The first pitch is so-so, but after that three pitches of quality 5.10 crack climbing await. Nice shady ledges offer a relaxing environment, and the descent is easy with raps. This is sure to become a popular route!

A short rap is required when rapping P3 (intermediate chains down and right). A short rap is also required to hit the ground. Even with a 70m rope. See the topos.

Thread on Squamish Climbing about the route

Topo on Jeremy Frimer's Site

Topo on Quickdraw Publication's Website

P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.

P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m

P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.

P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.


Campground wall, just up from the campground. Look for the well scrubbed line about 50-100' left of Rainy Day Dream Away. The are shiny rap anchors about 20' off the ground on a ledge which helps locate the start.


Standard double rack from nuts to #3 camalot.