Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Becky in the 60s (P1-P2?), Recleaned 2011
Page Views: 7,410 total · 83/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 6, 2011 with updates from skye h
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

120 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


A great, reclaimed route at the Bulletheads. The first pitch is so-so, but after that three pitches of quality 5.10 crack climbing await. Nice shady ledges offer a relaxing environment, and the descent is easy with raps. This is sure to become a popular route!

A short rap is required when rapping P3 (intermediate chains down and right). A short rap is also required to hit the ground. Even with a 70m rope. See the topos.

Thread on Squamish Climbing about the route

Topo on Jeremy Frimer's Site

Topo on Quickdraw Publication's Website

P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.

P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m

P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.

P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.


Campground wall, just up from the campground. Look for the well scrubbed line about 50-100' left of Rainy Day Dream Away. The are shiny rap anchors about 20' off the ground on a ledge which helps locate the start.


Standard double rack from nuts to #3 camalot.
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
Fantastic route. The first pitch is a direct way to get to the bottom of the rest of the route without hiking and traversing the Slot Machine ledge. The next three pitches are fantastic, I would call pitch#2 5.10c, pitch#3 5.10c, and pitch#4 5.10b. The big offwidth chimney groove is to the left of the last pitch.

I had doubles of everything up to #2 C4 one #3 and a selection of finger sized gear, it was more than enough, only the first 5.9 pitch has bad rope drag potential if you don't use some long slings.

If you don't want to rap the route, the walk off is not so bad. There is a fixed line in the wet corner, you could set up a rap off of trees if you don't like the look of it. After that it's a pretty straight forward scramble through the manana and slot machine areas. Aug 7, 2011
Dru B.
Dru B.  
Did this one yesterday. Pitch 2 was the crux for me. Middle crack on p3 felt like 10a, short crux and good finger jams. Climbed the chimney for the final pitch and you can get away with max. of one #3 camalot/#4 friend size, no need for double anything.

Worth noting too that this ends up on the ledge right below the Corazon Face so you have the choice to add on one of 3 10d bolted face climbs or a 10a dike traverse for a 5th pitch. Aug 10, 2011
Can Rainy Day Dream Away be used to access bullethead ledge and then linked into pitches two through four of Bulletheads East? Might make for a more consistent route though the first 5.9 pitch has character. Jul 15, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Repeated the route, and wow... is it good. Great long pitches separated by comfy ledges. On top of P2 plan to build a gear anchor if you are going for the right 10c option... for the left stembox you can use the tree.

I was pleased to have some extra #0.5 camalot/red alien sizes. On the P2 10c.. after pulling the roof the gear is sparse for a few moves, but I was then able to get a solid red alien at the base of the upper finger crack. Aug 10, 2012
Awesome climb! One of my favourites on the chief. I thought the 5.9 was even very high quality and a little bit tricky. Three pitches of 10c (we did the middle pitch for pitch 3 and the right-hand pitch for pitch 4). Each 10c is difficult in a different way - pitch 2 is sustained above the roof but doesn't have an extremely hard move on it - expect to place out of fairly strenuous stances. Pitch 3 has a tough lower crux with potential for feet skating but then eases off significantly. Pitch 4 is just awkward. It's probably the most secure of the three 5.10 pitches, but also the hardest work. We finished with the dyke traverse version of Ride the bullet. Highly recommended 10a that ends up right on the edge of the bullethead. Rapping Manana with a 60m rope took 2 raps. Looked like a 70m might have made it in 1 rap. Jul 4, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Pitch 1) FA: Peter Croft, Jim Campbell, Allen Tate, 1979. 5.9

Pitch 2-4) FA: Fred Beckey, Jim Sinclair, 1966. 10c A1,
they described the 2nd pitch as the central crack with the little roof.
the 3rd pitch was originally the stem box.
4th pitch was the chimney on the left.

I climbed this in 2012 with the middle finger crack on pitch 3, and the right crack on the 4th pitch ( which is part of Rainy Day Woman), The original BE finish is the chimney, but the right side crack is great.

Returned early this June and did the Pitch 3 stem box variation which is awesome!!!!!!!!!!
Another variation is the far left side for pitch 2. Sling a root and make airy traverse on dyke to finger crack, the intimidating roof above is easy and fun, trend right to pine tree, finish on 10a finger crack- leads to tree at base of Stem box pitch. Jun 24, 2014
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
p3 stembox variation isn't to be missed. Good gear the whole way from small/medium stoppers to finger and bigger cams Nov 4, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Quality. The Bulletheads in general offer some really lovely granite and BHE is no exception.

I always find the 5.9 pitch quite tricky, especially managing rope drag. I've climbed it three times and can't seem to work out where the gear should go to avoid it. Bring lots of slings.

The roof on p2 and the sparse section that follows provides the mental crux for me, but the thin and non-locking fingers above are probably the actual crux. 5.10.

Highlight of the route was the p3 fingers pitch, but I keep hearing the stem-box is amazing so I'll have to return. Short crux, bomber gear 5.10-.

We did the fingers & hands crack for p4, great pitch but I've found seeps a bit. Once it was too wet for me to climb (got about 1/3 of the way up but was just getting soaked), today it was dry at the bottom but still quite greasy near the crux. As AJV says, it is secure climbing though, I found I could just grunt my way through the moisture. If I climb it in the spring again I'll probably haul up a couple of 4s as well so I can try the flare/chimney if this one is wet again. 5.10. May 9, 2015
Aeon Aki

Aeon Aki    
Our take on the route:

P1: (5.9+) Moderate crack climbing leads to a traverse under a roof made easier by stepping on an old stump. Still, a challenging pitch and really no easier than the rest of the route. Bolt anchor on top of Bullethead Ledge.

P2: (5.10) Move right from the belay anchors along the ledge and head up the thin crack. a tricky roof encounter leads to an easier but technical finger crack. Once at the top of the crack, down climb a few feet to the left and belay off of a tree below the obvious "Stem Box" pitch.

P3: (5.10) Stem and jam up the "Stem Box" until it's possible to exit onto the right crack. Top out onto another forested ledge and build a gear belay.

P4 (5.10) Climb the finger/thin hands crack directly above and finish on the route's rap rings.

It would be very easy to rap from the top and climb the alternate 4th pitch before descending to the ground.

From Bullethead Ledge, a 70m rope will get you into the gully with 10-15 of easy down climbing back to your packs allowing you to skip the 8m rap station near the bottom. Tie knots in your rope ends!

Gear to 4" with a few doubles in the finger sizes. Jul 1, 2015
Really high quality moderate crack climbing. We used all the 'finger crack' options, but it looked like all of the options were pretty great. I chose to climb 'The Gift', which is the rightward pitch off the ground that's technically the start to Rainy Day Women. It's a bit of a heady .11a but would be a nice alternative start if the top corner were a little cleaner. Above the final anchor, there's a slab with several routes, any of which make a nice finishing pitch to the very top of the Bulletheads (we chose the bolted dyke, which was moderate and fun). Aug 3, 2016
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Holy smokes, the Stembox pitch is out of this world. This was my forth time on the route and I had never done the stem pitch option for p3. ABSOLUTELY do not miss this pitch. It's a perfect pitch, and wonderfully unique for Squamish. Great pro all the way.

On P2, I was pleased to discover a 0.75 X4 camalot went in beautifully right after pull the crux. YMMV. Aug 7, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Fully classic climb- if you like Squamish finger cracks and climb 5.10, this is your climb.

Pitch 1: 5.8, 40m- start in the hand crack to the right, not the weird chimney.

Pitch 2: 5.10c, 30m- Really good finger crack with good feet and pro.

Pitch 3: 5.10b-ish, 30m- We took the stembox and yes, it is as good as everyone says. Really wild feature. The belay at the bottom of the pitch was a bit weird, but it worked out with a tree and a #3 camalot.

Pitch 4: 5.10b, 30m- We did the finger crack, much easier than the 2nd pitch, imho. I will say the rap station is in the wrong place for such a popular route- if you're rappelling, make sure to let the parties below you know, as there is no way to avoid climbers coming up on rappel. When that station comes due for replacement, it really should be relocated about 10' to the left on the slab, which would nicely serve for both variations and keep rappellers out of the way of the climbers coming up.

Rack: We took a double to #3 and a #4- i'm not sure we used both 3's, but we did use a 4 at least once. As always, double up on those finger cams! Jul 7, 2017

super fun route. all of the pitches and all of the variation pitches are great. i was pretty dubious of dru's gear beta for the left hand chimney pitch (pitch 4), but it actually has really good protection that just keeps showing up. Aug 22, 2017
Hey guys. I just put up a new first pitch variation for bullet heads East or just a do it as a single pitch. It drys much faster than the 5.9 original pitch.

"Marooned" 5.11b

You start at the same belay as the 5.9 but you go up the the face past a bolt and then make some route out moves towards the crack. Climb the razor thin seam up the slabby face. Pull over the overlap past another bolt and a bit more runout until you reach the final inside corner.

60m rope will work great.
2 bolts, SR to .5' (rps protect the crux well).
Double .5' is also nice to have.

Enjoy! Apr 25, 2018
There is currently a big dead snag at the top of this route, leaning against one of the bolts on the dyke pitch, along with a few other sketchy dead trees still barely rooted in the ground. Touching these, or climbing the dyke, seems pretty unsafe. Trundling them would be a public service, but I'm not sure how it could be accomplished safely before wintertime. May 28, 2018
Vancouver, BC
ihategrigris   Vancouver, BC
awesome route, except for the scary, hollow first pitch. There's a long string on marginal gear on pitch 1 that does not inspire confidence, especially when wet. This pitch is best skipped by scrambling up to Slot Machine ledge and starting on Pitch 2. Jun 7, 2018
James Enright
Burlington, ON
James Enright   Burlington, ON
Try the off width chimney and see how you hold up. we lead it with a SR up to 4. Protection is solid but quite a fight for the grade. Jul 3, 2018