All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Bulletheads > Bulletheads, Central

Bullethead East

Name: Bullethead East
Rating: 3.7

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Bulletheads, Central

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bullethead East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bulletheads Central T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chimp Dip T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Don't Antiheasel Your Weasel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dyke Link S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Krimo Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Liquid Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mark of Zorro, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Marooned T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Moonwatcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Retrospect T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Ride the Bullet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Sneak Attack T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
	Third Abortion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Ticket to Ride T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tonatiuh S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Zappa Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	49.6807, -123.1474
FA:	Becky in the 60s (P1-P2?), Recleaned 2011
Page Views:	15,034 total · 87/month
Shared By:	Andy Laakmann on Aug 6, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

A great, reclaimed route at the Bulletheads. The first pitch is so-so, but after that three pitches of quality 5.10 crack climbing await. Nice shady ledges offer a relaxing environment, and the descent is easy with raps. This is sure to become a popular route!

A short rap is required when rapping P3 (intermediate chains down and right). A short rap is also required to hit the ground. Even with a 70m rope. See the topos.

Thread on Squamish Climbing about the route

Topo on Jeremy Frimer's Site

Topo on Quickdraw Publication's Website

P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.

P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m

P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.

P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.

Location

Campground wall, just up from the campground. Look for the well scrubbed line about 50-100' left of Rainy Day Dream Away. The are shiny rap anchors about 20' off the ground on a ledge which helps locate the start.