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Squamish Climbing
| Elevation: | 217 ft |
| GPS: | 49.68, -123.154 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 4,525,364 total · 22,545/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Feb 18, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Squamish is simply fantastic and features endless, perfect granite climbing that is basically roadside. If you want to crag, no problem. If you want to climb a 15 pitch classic, no problem. Squamish has it all, including lots of rain. Just hope it doesn't rain (much) during your visit and you'll love the place.
Getting There
From Vancouver, negotiate your way out of town (confusing), and follow the scenic 99 (Sea to Sky Hwy) north along the eastern flanks of the Howe Sound for around 70 km (44 mi) to Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, just south of the small town of Squamish. Allow about 1-1.5 hours driving time.
Other Areas Nearby
This section of the database is limited to the closest formations to the town of Squamish. To help visitors orient themselves to other areas within striking distance of Squamish, use the Map and these notes:
The Sea to Sky (Squamish to Whistler) is the stretch of highway between Squamish and Whistler and contains many primarily sport-climbing crags which range from 10 to 40 minutes away from Squamish.
Sea to Sky (North of Whistler) is obviously a little further north, but perfectly reasonable for day trips from Squamish. There's a lot in the area although not much has been posted here yet.
Some of the Vancouver crags are easily accessible from Squamish, although once you made it there, why head back south?
The Sea to Sky (Squamish to Whistler) is the stretch of highway between Squamish and Whistler and contains many primarily sport-climbing crags which range from 10 to 40 minutes away from Squamish.
Sea to Sky (North of Whistler) is obviously a little further north, but perfectly reasonable for day trips from Squamish. There's a lot in the area although not much has been posted here yet.
Some of the Vancouver crags are easily accessible from Squamish, although once you made it there, why head back south?
Camping
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
Click here for Municipal Campground information. Up-to-date locations and prices + online availability and booking.
PLEASE DO NOT CAMP IN THE FOLLOWING PLACES:
*Spit Road - Squamish Estuary/Wildlife Management Area
* Downtown Squamish
* Mamquam Forest Service Road/Powerhouse Springs Road
* Any residential area
RECOMMENDATIONS:
At the base of the Chief
$10/person
This area is literally a one minute walk to the Chief (Campground Wall), five minutes to the Grand Wall boulders, and ten minutes to the base of the Grand Wall. The treed ambiance and cooking area make this a nice place to base yourself. It's about a thirty minute walk into town for groceries, meals etc, and perhaps forty minutes walk to the Smoke Bluffs.
Mamquam River Campground
$15/night
A campground by dirtbags, for dirtbags. It's Squamish's cheapest campground option and is specifically geared toward climbers.
Just across the street from Shannon Falls
$33/night
Maybe ten minutes to the Shannon Falls climbing and twenty minutes to the Grand Wall. It's about ten minutes further from town than the camping at the base of the Chief.
Alice Lake
$12/night
This area accepts reservations, has climbing very close by (not yet posted in the database though), and is probably a good base for climbing north of Squamish, like at Chek.
Click here for Municipal Campground information. Up-to-date locations and prices + online availability and booking.
PLEASE DO NOT CAMP IN THE FOLLOWING PLACES:
*Spit Road - Squamish Estuary/Wildlife Management Area
* Downtown Squamish
* Mamquam Forest Service Road/Powerhouse Springs Road
* Any residential area
RECOMMENDATIONS:
At the base of the Chief
$10/person
This area is literally a one minute walk to the Chief (Campground Wall), five minutes to the Grand Wall boulders, and ten minutes to the base of the Grand Wall. The treed ambiance and cooking area make this a nice place to base yourself. It's about a thirty minute walk into town for groceries, meals etc, and perhaps forty minutes walk to the Smoke Bluffs.
Mamquam River Campground
$15/night
A campground by dirtbags, for dirtbags. It's Squamish's cheapest campground option and is specifically geared toward climbers.
Just across the street from Shannon Falls
$33/night
Maybe ten minutes to the Shannon Falls climbing and twenty minutes to the Grand Wall. It's about ten minutes further from town than the camping at the base of the Chief.
Alice Lake
$12/night
This area accepts reservations, has climbing very close by (not yet posted in the database though), and is probably a good base for climbing north of Squamish, like at Chek.
Accomodations
If you are not interested in camping, here are some other options:
Squamish Hostel - squamishhostel.com/
Howesound Brew Pub (has a few rooms too!) - howesound.com/
There are also many good options available on AirBNB or VRBO, with locations located very close to many of the major climbing areas.
Where to Eat
This is just a sampling, suggest more in the comments if you wish.
Groceries:
Save-On-Foods is the cheapest option, a few blocks into town on the right.
Nester's Market in the plaza at the intersection of Cleveland and Hwy. 99. More expensive.
Pub:
The Howe Sound Inn&Brewing Co. right at the very end of Cleveland Street. This is very popular hangout with climbers and other outdoor types. The food is also very good, much better than your average pub fare.
Breakfast:
Chef Big D's for traditional breakfast: eggs, toast, fruit, etc, just down Cleveland on the left
The Mountain Burger House at Cleveland and Pemberton (a few blocks past the plaza) for more of the same
Zephyr Cafe in the same area, serving "craft" food - fancier, more expensive, less filling
Groceries:
Save-On-Foods is the cheapest option, a few blocks into town on the right.
Nester's Market in the plaza at the intersection of Cleveland and Hwy. 99. More expensive.
Pub:
The Howe Sound Inn&Brewing Co. right at the very end of Cleveland Street. This is very popular hangout with climbers and other outdoor types. The food is also very good, much better than your average pub fare.
Breakfast:
Chef Big D's for traditional breakfast: eggs, toast, fruit, etc, just down Cleveland on the left
The Mountain Burger House at Cleveland and Pemberton (a few blocks past the plaza) for more of the same
Zephyr Cafe in the same area, serving "craft" food - fancier, more expensive, less filling
Access Information
Squamish Access Society Lots of useful information about access.
- Check the sire for camping information, closures, Perigrin Falcon nesting, and other useful beta.
- Membership is $10 for 5 years. Please join to support ongoing advocacy for climbers.
PLEASE observe camping restrictions and if you are wild camping dispose of human waste appropriately.
- Check the sire for camping information, closures, Perigrin Falcon nesting, and other useful beta.
- Membership is $10 for 5 years. Please join to support ongoing advocacy for climbers.
PLEASE observe camping restrictions and if you are wild camping dispose of human waste appropriately.
Classic Climbing Routes at Squamish
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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