Grand Wall Area Rock Climbing
|GPS:||49.682, -123.148 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Mar 14, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
The rock is mostly smooth vertical granite with a few very distinct crack systems.
The Grand Wall Area starts partway up the cliff and can be accessed from a number of Grand Wall Base Area routes.
The Usual Way:
Climb Apron Strings (10b, 2p) to Merci Me (5.8, 2p, somewhat runout) and then do a seemingly unnamed 10b traverse right to some bolts below the Split Pillar. Aid up the three bolts to a comfy ledge at the start of the Split Pillar. It's possible to boulder past the bolts on the left at about 5.12-.
The Fastest Way:
As above, but avoid Apron Strings by walking left along the base of the wall until you can work your way up and right on Flake Ledge (including batmanning up a short chain) to the start of Merci Me.
The Most Rewarding Way:
Climb Cruel Shoes (5.10d, 6p, one runout 5.9 pitch) to the base of the Split Pillar.
Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Wall Area
Days w Precip