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Routes in Grand Wall Area

Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free Grand, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grand Wall, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Left Side, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roman Chimneys T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
University Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Upper Black Dyke S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wall of Attrition T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

This is the large expanse of granite on the Squamish Chief that includes the Grand Wall route and its numerous variations. It's west facing allowing morning shade and sometimes severe afternoon sun.

The rock is mostly smooth vertical granite with a few very distinct crack systems.

Getting There

From the main Chief parking lot off of Highway 99, walk along the paved road that leads to the campground a short distance until you can turn left on the old highway. Walk until you see a trail on the right with a large sign. Take the well marked trail to the base of the wall.

The Grand Wall Area starts partway up the cliff and can be accessed from a number of Grand Wall Base Area routes.

The Usual Way:
Climb Apron Strings (10b, 2p) to Merci Me (5.8, 2p, somewhat runout) and then do a seemingly unnamed 10b traverse right to some bolts below the Split Pillar. Aid up the three bolts to a comfy ledge at the start of the Split Pillar. It's possible to boulder past the bolts on the left at about 5.12-.

The Fastest Way:
As above, but avoid Apron Strings by walking left along the base of the wall until you can work your way up and right on Flake Ledge (including batmanning up a short chain) to the start of Merci Me.

The Most Rewarding Way:
Climb Cruel Shoes (5.10d, 6p, one runout 5.9 pitch) to the base of the Split Pillar.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Wall Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 26
Upper Black Dyke
Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Stairway to Heaven
Sport 16 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 46
Cruel Shoes
Trad 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 248
The Grand Wall
Trad, Aid 9 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Roman Chimneys
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
The Left Side
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
University Wall
Trad 8 pitches
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 4
The Shadow
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Black Dyke
 26
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 4 pitches
Stairway to Heaven
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 16 pitches
Cruel Shoes
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 6 pitches
The Grand Wall
 248
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid 9 pitches
Roman Chimneys
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
The Left Side
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
University Wall
 15
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 8 pitches
The Shadow
 4
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
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