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Grand Wall Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Grand Wall Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Free Grand, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Genius Loci S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Golden Throat Charmer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Grand Wall, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
	Grinning Weasel, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Inner Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Left Side, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Roman Chimneys T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Shadow, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Ten Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+
	University Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2
	Upper Black Dyke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wall of Attrition T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	675 ft	206 m
GPS:	49.68218, -123.14798 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Peter Spindloe on Mar 14, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This is the large expanse of granite on the Squamish Chief that includes the Grand Wall route and its numerous variations. It's west facing allowing morning shade and sometimes severe afternoon sun.

The rock is mostly smooth vertical granite with a few very distinct crack systems.

Getting There

From the main Chief parking lot off of Highway 99, walk along the paved road that leads to the campground a short distance until you can turn left on the old highway. Walk until you see a trail on the right with a large sign. Take the well marked trail to the base of the wall.

The Grand Wall Area starts partway up the cliff and can be accessed from a number of Grand Wall Base Area routes.

The Usual Way:
Climb Apron Strings (10b, 2p) to Merci Me (5.8, 2p, somewhat runout) and then do a seemingly unnamed 10b traverse right to some bolts below the Split Pillar. Aid up the three bolts to a comfy ledge at the start of the Split Pillar. It's possible to boulder past the bolts on the left at about 5.12-.

The Fastest Way:
As above, but avoid Apron Strings by walking left along the base of the wall until you can work your way up and right on Flake Ledge (including batmanning up a short chain) to the start of Merci Me.

The Most Rewarding Way:
Climb Cruel Shoes (5.10d, 6p, one runout 5.9 pitch) to the base of the Split Pillar.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Wall Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 53 ● Upper Black Dyke Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 520 ● The Grand Wall Trad, Aid 9 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● The Grinning Weasel Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 18 ● Roman Chimneys Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 24 ● The Left Side Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 29 ● University Wall Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 4 ● The Free Grand Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 8 ● The Shadow Trad