Avg: 3.5 from 586 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Jeremy Frimer (2011) Parts of pitches 2 & 3: Dick Culbert & Mike Warr (1967)|
|Page Views:||64,099 total · 454/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roberts on Jul 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 2: "The Flume" - Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m.
Pitch 3: "The Fork" - A jug/flake pulling romp along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling. Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m.
Pitch 5: Romp upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m.
There are a series of harder variations, note the topo I've attached, drawn up by Mr. Frimer. I haven't tried any, but if this route is below your level I might recommend trying one of them as the upper pitches of Skywalker are a bit tame.
Proper PDF of the route can be found at jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/…
All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.