Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches
FA: Jeremy Frimer (2011) Parts of pitches 2 & 3: Dick Culbert & Mike Warr (1967)
Page Views: 68,728 total · 435/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Jul 3, 2011
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

Something of a phenomenon, this route became immensely popular almost overnight. Seems to illustrate a deep-seated desire in the community for beginner routes lacking gear belays and runouts.

Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch 2: "The Flume" - Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m.

Pitch 3: "The Fork" - A jug/flake pulling romp along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling. Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m.

Pitch 5: Romp upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m.

There are a series of harder variations, note the topo I've attached, drawn up by Mr. Frimer. I haven't tried any, but if this route is below your level I might recommend trying one of them as the upper pitches of Skywalker are a bit tame.

Proper PDF of the route can be found at jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/…

Location Suggest change

Follow the trail to the right of Local Boys Slab, just past Magic Carpet Ride and Not Your Normal Nightmare. Easy to find, look for a bolt ten feet up one foot to the left of a crack. Walk off to the right (Shannon Pools to the left).

Protection Suggest change

I didn't place a cam bigger than a .5 Camalot, but would recommend doubles in finger sizes. There are places for gear as big as a #4, but you'd be fine with cams to one inch and one set of nuts.

All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.