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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall

Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chewbacca T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jeremy Frimer (2011) Parts of pitches 2 & 3: Dick Culbert & Mike Warr (1967)
Page Views: 33,840 total, 431/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Jul 3, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Something of a phenomenom, this route became immensely popular almost overnight. Seems to illustrate a deep-seated desire in the community for beginner routes lacking gear belays and runouts.

Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch 2: "The Flume" Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m.

Pitch 3: "The Fork" A jug/flake pulling romp along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m.

Pitch 5: Romp upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m.

There are a series of harder variations, note the topo I've attached, drawn up by Mr. Frimer. I haven't tried any, but if this route is below your level I might recommend trying one of them as the upper pitches of Skywalker are a bit tame.

Proper PDF of the route can be found at jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/…

Location

Follow the trail to the right of Local Boys Slab, just past Magic Carpet Ride and Not Your Normal Nightmare. Easy to find, look for a bolt ten feet up one foot to the left of a crack. Walk off to the right (Shannon Pools to the left).

Protection

I didn't place a cam bigger than a .5 Camelot, but would recommend doubles finger sizes. There are places for gear as big as a #4, but you'd be fine with cams to one inch and one set of nuts.

All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.9
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Great climb.
The 5.8 shallow corner (pitch #2) is a 5.9. It is easy if you are a solid 5.9/5.10 crack climber and know how to dance your feet up a corner, but this will spook a new 5.8 leader. Sep 5, 2017
Lauren Yee
Seattle, WA
 
Lauren Yee   Seattle, WA
 
My first multipitch trad route and it was excellent! I swapped leads with my partner and climbed pitches 1, 3, 5. It rained 2 days prior and the route was a still a bit wet. We climbed on a Monday and arrived at 7:30am with 4 parties in front of us.The first pitch has some pretty exposed traverse slab climbing to the anchors. The most challenging parts of pitch 1 were the first couple of moves off the ground to the bolt and placing my first piece of gear but it might have been partly due to my height (5 feet) and partly with the route being wet. The second pitch (I followed) was the hardest 5.8 I've been on. The crack flares and I couldn't do anything with my hands. It was shallow and again wet with pine needles. I relied mostly on shoulder scumming, jamming my right foot into the crack and smearing with my left; which felt far from secure. The third pitch was fun but definitely had some interesting moves at the end to the anchor. Pitch 4 (I followed), really fun traverse. It didn't feel very exposed and my leader protected me well. Pitch 5, quick little scramble to the top :) Checked out Shannon Falls after and it was worth the hike up hill. Gorgeous pools and very refreshing!! Jul 25, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Hornet's Nest Alert on the descent trail from Skywalker, right as you come past the base of Chewbacca, you'll pass a blue handline that leads down a steep, tree rooted area- there is a nest in the ground here on hiker's right- step lightly and you'll be fine. Jul 25, 2017
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
 
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
 
I found the slab traverse on pitch 1, with the two closely spaced bolts, to be the crux. My slab technique is horrible, and I found myself needing to step on the second bolt as a foothold as I *down* climbed past it to finish the traverse right. Maybe I was off route too high on the traverse? Sep 28, 2016
Sketty
  5.9-
Sketty  
  5.9-
Have to totally disagree with Tomas, this is a great first multipitch - much better than Diedre. There are no unprotected traverses for the second to cheese-grate on, and while I agree that the start of P2 is probably closer to 5.9 than 5.8, the entire route felt much more fun, varied, and comfortable-feeling. The move on top of p3 is indeed tricky, but not in an "stupid" way, just in a thought-provoking way. Plus the top-out into the waterfall pools is a great way to add to the feeling of accomplishment. Sep 1, 2016
natsdad
  5.8
natsdad  
  5.8
Enjoyable route. Good quality climbing and protection. Third pitch was my favorite. Second pitch was burly and tough for the grade. A harder and more committing route than Diedre. Don't miss the pools at the top! Aug 29, 2016
pkeds
Redondo Beach, CA
 
pkeds   Redondo Beach, CA
 
Good, I do t this k it's deserving in the 100 best climbs at squamish list Aug 22, 2016
Great, varied climbing, with an incredibly refreshing pay-off at the top. Jul 13, 2015
Chrissy Crushes
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Chrissy Crushes   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Shannon Pools was amazing and definitely worth visiting! Hike in was easy, took a log across the creek and then uphill, met up with well marked trail (orange diamonds-turn left) and took that to the wall. Jul 14, 2014
Tomas Hatala
Vancouver
Tomas Hatala   Vancouver
Ok, did this climb today. Survived.
The 5.8 should really be a 5.9 (2nd pitch). If you're thinking this is a good first multipitch, go do Diedre instead. Last move of the 3rd pitch was a bit tricky but doable, definitely a 5.8 move. We were there at 1pm and the crack at the bottom was slightly wet during a hot day after 3 days of sunshine, but it's not that bad to do anyway. The Skywalker pitch is more mentally challenging than technically, so get ready for some cool traversing.
We did enjoy the climb, but there are some stressful spots. Jul 3, 2014
slim

  5.8
slim    
  5.8
did this one twice one morning, using all of the various 10a variation pitches. fun, well protected. Aug 5, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Tried the EPB variation today. Very fun, generously bolted and low in the grade. Much more interesting climbing than the last three pitches of Skywalker. Jul 6, 2013
Got on this this morning, great route, great fun all the way up. Didnt see another party till we started out on the 4th pitch. Jun 18, 2013
Lina Baker  
 
What a fun climb!!! Worth waiting for behind a few rope teams. The crux pitch (p2) is burly but has great jams, and the plaque before the sky-walk is priceless. fantastic climb! May 6, 2013
We linked p1-2 with a 60m (some rope drag) and finished up the EPB variation for a 2-pitch route. EPB is very good and should not be missed. Apr 19, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
We climbed a 10a variation of the second pitch, which goes up the seam on the left side of the belay ledge. Protection gets thin as the seam shallows and you transition into slab with bolts. Pass the anchor on the slab and continue to the anchors above the broken crack. We then did the 10a variation of the third pitch, called EPB, which was definitely awesome. This puts you at the top-out ledge with an obvious trail up to the traditional end and walk-off. Aug 22, 2012
John Tennant
  5.8
John Tennant  
  5.8
Heads up on the first slab by traverse as well as the sting in the tail on the third pitch. Seriously fun and amazing route. Instant classic. Oct 27, 2011
Cat Cahoon
Seattle, WA
 
Cat Cahoon   Seattle, WA
 
We hiked in for the route on Sunday- Fat chance! take a number. So we were the first party on it Monday. There were immediately two parties after us. The bottom of the first pitch was wet. I thought the traverse was 5.8. And the moves at the end of the third pitch are thought provoking as well. All the pitches are really fun climbing! Aug 30, 2011
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Went to do it on a Wednesday evening and found two parties already on it. We went and did a few other routes and came back to do it before the sun set. It looks like there will almost always be lines for this one...

Almost too comfortized, but definitely fun and good to have such a nice route at the grade. The second pitch is surprisingly intimidating looking from below, but really is just a nice 5.8. Aug 18, 2011
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.8
Climbed this on Saturday. We chose the 5.10a EPB finish. It was safe and secure for a 5.10a and the moves were straightforward. I think most 5.9 leaders could send it without too much trouble, so consider it if you'd like an additional challenge or alternative to the easier traditional finish. Great fun! Aug 15, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Haven't climbed Skywalker yet, but we were at Shannon Falls climbing other routes today as I observed a constant parade of parties on Skywalker.

I suspect this route will quickly unseat Diedre as the most popular climb in Canada!

It looks like way more fun than Diedre too! Aug 13, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
OMG, this was an amazingly fun climb. Each pitch very different from the rest. Lots of fun all the way up.

Don't forget to see Shannon Falls on the way out (go left at the fork) it's gorgeous. Aug 7, 2011