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Magic Carpet Ride
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall
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19th nervous breakdown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aladdin's Magic Lamp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Austrom, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cafe Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Matter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friends and Family T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Interstellar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liftoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Local Girls Are Bad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Local Heroes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Say-Noth-Ka Arête S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skywalker EPB T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spirit of Squamish, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Split Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.66932, -123.15753 |
| FA: | P1-2: Scott Flavelle, Carl Austrom (1976); P3-4 Jim Sandford, Carl Austrom (1986) - FA info from Squamish Select (Marc Bourdon, 2020) |
| Page Views: | 143 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Lang Wong on Sep 6, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A high quality and sustained slab multi to the left of Skywalker. A mixture of chicken heads, small edges, and desperate friction moves make for an engaging and varied outing. There are some long runouts on easier terrain, so don't let your guard down too soon. The route looks dirty from below, but the crux pitches are (thankfully) surprisingly clean.
All anchors are bolted, with rap rings at each belay.
P1: (4 bolts): Start up the grungy slab towards a bolt 15 ft up the wall. 10c if you start on the left and climb towards the shallow groove, more like 11- if you start in the middle of the wall.
P2: 11a (9 bolts): Traverse up and right, then continue on small edges straight up the face. Sustained.
P3: 11c (6 bolts): Follow a variety of features up the wall, traversing right towards a bulge with small underclings.
P4: 10c (6 bolts): Continue up the wall as bolt spacing gets less kind. At the time of writing the traditional finish was dirty, so trending right and merging with the final crack of Skywalker EPB made for a more enjoyable finish. This pitch likely seeps.
Posted on mountain project with the hope this route gets more traffic!
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