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Elevation: 393 ft 120 m
GPS: 49.67002, -123.15658
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Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Shannon Falls Provincial Park is reported to be the most often visited Provincial Park in BC. The climbing here is very good and the approaches are not long. Despite those advantages it doesn't seem to see that much climbing traffic. Perhaps the tourist popularity of the area is seen as a detraction. Rest assured that once you cross the creek and start climbing, you won't see them, except from way above, and you won't hear them thanks to the falls. This area is well worth a visit.

The left side of this area is home to some low-angle single and multipitch climbs of high quality. The most well-known of which are Klahanie Crack (5.7, 1 pitch), Local Boys Do Good (5.11a, 3 pitches) and Magic Carpet Ride (5.11+, 3 pitches). Further right from the falls, it is also home to some outstanding vertical climbs such as Man of Leisure (5.10b) and two testpiece cracks: Hungry Wolf (5.11b) and Hunter Moon (5.11d). Note that Hungry Wolf and Hunter Moon are reversed in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of his guidebook (on the topo the 321 and 322 are reversed).

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the Shannon Falls Provincial Park lot which is just south of the Chief and about 3 miles north of Murrin Park.

Longer but better approach:

Walk along the driveway between the traffic lights and the parking lot. A trail heads east and in about 10 minutes takes you to the Local Boys area from which you can head right for all the other climbs.

Shorter, bushwack approach:

The a wide tourist trail takes you to the falls viewpoint. Before reaching the bridge, cross the creek on a large long and some rocks in the creek. You might get your feet wet in the spring.

Once on the other side a steep trail takes you straight up to base of Local Boys.

From the Local Boys Area:

A trail heads right and takes you to the right side ("The Gobsmacking Wall"). From the Local Boys area it's five or ten minutes to the far right side. To get to base of Hunter Moon and its companions you have to double back along a high ledge, whereas following the trail along the base will take you to the base of Man of Leisure.

148 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shannon Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 73
Condo Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 676
Klahanie Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 222
Cardhu Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 674
Skywalker
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 346
The Spirit of Squamish
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 201
Mushroom
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 240
Hairpin
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 56
Chewbacca
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Soul Shakedown
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Stolen Dreams
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Half Lotus
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 112
Local Boys Do Good
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 31
Zen Garden
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Hungry Wolf
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Never Say Never
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Condo Crack Papoose > Backside Area
 73
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Klahanie Crack Shannon Falls Wall
 676
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cardhu Crack Shannon Falls Wall
 222
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Skywalker Shannon Falls Wall
 674
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
The Spirit of Squamish Shannon Falls Wall
 346
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 8 pitches
Mushroom Papoose > Main Area, Frontside
 201
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hairpin Papoose > Main Area, Frontside
 240
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Chewbacca Gobsmacking Wall
 56
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Soul Shakedown Zen Garden > Zen Garden Main Area
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Stolen Dreams Papoose > Upper Papoose Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Half Lotus Zen Garden > Zen Garden Main Area
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Local Boys Do Good Shannon Falls Wall
 112
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Zen Garden Zen Garden > Zen Garden Main Area
 31
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Hungry Wolf Gobsmacking Wall
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Never Say Never Gobsmacking Wall
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Shannon Falls »

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