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Areas in Shannon Falls

AMO Wall 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Gobsmacking Wall 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Papoose, The 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Shannon Falls Wall 9 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Shannon Falls Provincial Park is reported to be the most often visited Provincial Park in BC. The climbing here is very good and the approaches are not long. Despite those advantages it doesn't seem to see that much climbing traffic. Perhaps the tourist popularity of the area is seen as a detraction. Rest assured that once you cross the creek and start climbing, you won't see them, except from way above, and you won't hear them thanks to the falls. This area is well worth a visit.

The left side of this area is home to some low-angle single and multipitch climbs of high quality. The most well-known of which are Klahanie Crack (5.7, 1 pitch), Local Boys Do Good (5.11a, 3 pitches) and Magic Carpet Ride (5.11+, 3 pitches). Further right from the falls, it is also home to some outstanding vertical climbs such as Man of Leisure (5.10b) and two testpiece cracks: Hungry Wolf (5.11b) and Hunter Moon (5.11d). Note that Hungry Wolf and Hunter Moon are reversed in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of his guidebook (on the topo the 321 and 322 are reversed).

Getting There

Park at the Shannon Falls Provincial Park lot which is just south of the Chief and about 3 miles north of Murrin Park.

Longer but better approach:

Walk along the driveway between the traffic lights and the parking lot. A trail heads east and in about 10 minutes takes you to the Local Boys area from which you can head right for all the other climbs.

Shorter, bushwack approach:

The a wide tourist trail takes you to the falls viewpoint. Before reaching the bridge, cross the creek on a large long and some rocks in the creek. You might get your feet wet in the spring.

Once on the other side a steep trail takes you straight up to base of Local Boys.

From the Local Boys Area:

A trail heads right and takes you to the right side ("The Gobsmacking Wall"). From the Local Boys area it's five or ten minutes to the far right side. To get to base of Hunter Moon and its companions you have to double back along a high ledge, whereas following the trail along the base will take you to the base of Man of Leisure.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shannon Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 371
Klahanie Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
Cardhu Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 377
Skywalker
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Dirty Dicky
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
The Relish Route
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 108
Mushroom
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Laid Back
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 103
Split Decision
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 102
Hairpin
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Mercury Vapour
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Chewbacca
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Centerfold
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 64
Local Boys Do Good
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Hungry Wolf
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Never Say Never
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Klahanie Crack Shannon Falls Wall
 371
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cardhu Crack Shannon Falls Wall
 117
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Skywalker Shannon Falls Wall
 377
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Dicky Shannon Falls Wall
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Relish Route AMO Wall
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Mushroom Papoose
 108
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Laid Back Papoose
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Split Decision Shannon Falls Wall
 103
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hairpin Papoose
 102
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Mercury Vapour Papoose
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Chewbacca Gobsmacking Wall
 27
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Centerfold Papoose
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Local Boys Do Good Shannon Falls Wall
 64
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Hungry Wolf Gobsmacking Wall
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Never Say Never Gobsmacking Wall
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Shannon Falls »

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Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
The trail up to Local Boys and then to Gobsmacking Wall is now extremely well traveled due to Skywalker (which descends the climber's right side). We got on the trail by backtracking on the Shannon Falls road until past the creek, and then a well marked trail takes off to the left. Aug 13, 2011
Wasted almost an hour today trying to find the climb from the details here.

The longitude/latitude locations are pretty far off. The climb is on the right (south) side of the falls at 49.670033,-123.157773.

If you park in shannon falls parking lot. Get out of your car and walk back along the road towards the traffic light at the highway (at the entrance). You'll cross over the bridge the cars use (stay on the pedestrian path on the right). When you're about 50m from the traffic light, you'll see multiple trails (I counted 3) on the opposite (east) side of the road that all join to the main trail to Local Boys. You can't miss them. (The trail head is at 49.670033,-123.157773) One of those yellow "B.C. is Idle Free" signs is right next to the trail head. Sep 4, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Hornet's Nest On Trail- as you approach Chewbacca (or descend from Skywalker), you'll pass a blue handline going up through some rooted soil. There is a large hornets nest in the ground here on the climbers left. Please step lightly- at least one or two people were stung yesterday. Jul 25, 2017

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