Elevation: 393 ft
GPS: 49.67, -123.157 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 172,633 total · 1,058/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

Shannon Falls Provincial Park is reported to be the most often visited Provincial Park in BC. The climbing here is very good and the approaches are not long. Despite those advantages it doesn't seem to see that much climbing traffic. Perhaps the tourist popularity of the area is seen as a detraction. Rest assured that once you cross the creek and start climbing, you won't see them, except from way above, and you won't hear them thanks to the falls. This area is well worth a visit.

The left side of this area is home to some low-angle single and multipitch climbs of high quality. The most well-known of which are Klahanie Crack (5.7, 1 pitch), Local Boys Do Good (5.11a, 3 pitches) and Magic Carpet Ride (5.11+, 3 pitches). Further right from the falls, it is also home to some outstanding vertical climbs such as Man of Leisure (5.10b) and two testpiece cracks: Hungry Wolf (5.11b) and Hunter Moon (5.11d). Note that Hungry Wolf and Hunter Moon are reversed in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of his guidebook (on the topo the 321 and 322 are reversed).

Getting There

Park at the Shannon Falls Provincial Park lot which is just south of the Chief and about 3 miles north of Murrin Park.

Longer but better approach:

Walk along the driveway between the traffic lights and the parking lot. A trail heads east and in about 10 minutes takes you to the Local Boys area from which you can head right for all the other climbs.

Shorter, bushwack approach:

The a wide tourist trail takes you to the falls viewpoint. Before reaching the bridge, cross the creek on a large long and some rocks in the creek. You might get your feet wet in the spring.

Once on the other side a steep trail takes you straight up to base of Local Boys.

From the Local Boys Area:

A trail heads right and takes you to the right side ("The Gobsmacking Wall"). From the Local Boys area it's five or ten minutes to the far right side. To get to base of Hunter Moon and its companions you have to double back along a high ledge, whereas following the trail along the base will take you to the base of Man of Leisure.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shannon Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
Condo Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 471
Klahanie Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 160
Cardhu Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 477
Skywalker
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
Dirty Dicky
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
The Relish Route
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 137
Mushroom
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 133
Split Decision
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 29
Laid Back
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 132
Hairpin
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Mercury Vapour
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Chewbacca
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
Centerfold
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 83
Local Boys Do Good
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Hungry Wolf
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Condo Crack Papoose > Backside Crags
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Klahanie Crack Shannon Falls Wall
 471
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cardhu Crack Shannon Falls Wall
 160
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Skywalker Shannon Falls Wall
 477
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Dicky Shannon Falls Wall
 68
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Relish Route AMO Wall
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Mushroom Papoose > Main Area, Frontside
 137
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Split Decision Shannon Falls Wall
 133
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Laid Back Papoose > Main Area, Frontside
 29
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hairpin Papoose > Main Area, Frontside
 132
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Mercury Vapour Papoose > Main Area, Frontside
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Chewbacca Gobsmacking Wall
 34
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Centerfold Papoose > Main Area, Frontside
 85
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Local Boys Do Good Shannon Falls Wall
 83
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Hungry Wolf Gobsmacking Wall
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
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