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Chewbacca
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 64
votes
Routes in Gobsmacking Wall
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Chewbacca T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cross-eyed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hungry Wolf T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hunters Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lycanthropy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Man of Leisure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Never Say Never T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Poultry in Motion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Styrofoam Window T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.6684, -123.15825 |
| FA: | Sean Pickersgill, Bryan Kent, Joel Beckmann, Taran Ortlieb |
| Page Views: | 7,049 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Aug 5, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Fantastic new addition. Steep, varied climbing and a nice departure from the usual Squamish corner. All bolted anchors.
P1 - Easy face climbing leads to a short, steep tight hands/finger crack. 5.10-. Small ledge for the belay.
P2 - Fun chimney/slot with good gear. Felt about 5.9 tops to me. Huge belay ledge.
P3 - The money pitch. Climb the steep finger/hand crack until the little roof. While it looks like it should go up the corner, the climb tackles the short tight hand crack that angles right up the headwall. As that crack ends, step left onto a small ledge. Continue stepping left into the corner. The move stepping into the corner is a bit committing with your gear down and right of you (be sure to use slings). Find gear near the rock scar and make a face move out of the corner and slab up past a bolt to the top. The topo shows the crux as the face move exiting the corner, but I thought the crux was the angling hand crack. A long pitch, though the final 50' is easy.
More details available at Squamish Climbing Forum
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