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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall

Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chewbacca T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sean Pickersgill, Bryan Kent, Joel Beckmann, Taran Ortlieb
Page Views: 3,393 total · 63/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 5, 2013
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Fantastic new addition. Steep, varied climbing and a nice departure from the usual Squamish corner. All bolted anchors.

P1 - Easy face climbing leads to a short, steep tight hands/finger crack. 5.10-. Small ledge for the belay.

P2 - Fun chimney/slot with good gear. Felt about 5.9 tops to me. Huge belay ledge.

P3 - The money pitch. Climb the steep finger/hand crack until the little roof. While it looks like it should go up the corner, the climb tackles the short tight hand crack that angles right up the headwall. As that crack ends, step left onto a small ledge. Continue stepping left into the corner and clip a bolt. The move stepping into the corner is a bit committing with your gear down and right of you (be sure to use slings). After clipping the bolt, make a face move out of the corner and slab up past another bolt to the top. The topo shows the crux as the face move exiting the corner, but I thought the crux was the angling hand crack. A long pitch, though the final 50' is easy.

More details available at Squamish Climbing Forum

Location

Continue right past Skywalker for about 10 minutes until you come to a nicely made belay platform just left of the trail.

Protection

Standard rack to #3

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
Hornet's Nest Alert- As you approach the base of the route, coming up the last handline, there is a large hornet's nest in the ground among the tree roots on climber's left. Keep an eye out and step lightly... Jul 25, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
Super good climb- well worth doing if you're in the area.

Couple thoughts...

1) Link Pitch 1 & 2 for a 40m 5.10a pitch. I'm undecided as to whether the chimney is 5.10a or not. The first pitch is probably hard 5.9. The link is probably 5.10a, though.

2) The crux pitch is not that hard per se, but it should be approached as a 5.10b, as a fall out of the corner after you step across would be...bad, and the lack of a bolt means you have to stay on it for a little ways before good gear (save a yellow alien/yellow TCU sized piece for this).

3) I took doubles to green camalot, and singles to #3 and felt great on the whole thing. Jul 24, 2017
Pitch 1: Really nice jams and movement.

Pitch 2: An enjoyable chimney (is that an oxymoron?). Though in Yose they'd only give it a 5.7.

Pitch 3: Exhilarating. Bolt after the committing move out left is def missing. I placed a small cam in the flake which'd have probably broken the flake if I took a big whipper.

Pure pleasure this climb! Thank you FA'ers! Aug 27, 2016
Absolutely LOVED IT. 5*****

P1-10a- Get warmed up with some easy jams and fingers
P2-10b- Climb the large flaring chimney with Bomber hands the whole way and great stemming
P3-10a/b- CA$H Money if you can place great, but sometimes spaced out gear with long runners, crazy cool block hugging, flakes, hands, epic fingers, corner transfers, and a bulge pull. more amazing finger locks top off the pitch with a relaxed slab to finish.

Overall very fun climbing. Thanks for this one! Nov 23, 2015
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10b
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10b
Found the route to be ok. There is definitely some fun climbing, but also some less than enjoyable moves.

P1 - Fun easy climbing to a cool crack. Move up the steeper crack. 10a-ish
P2 - Awkward squeeze chimney with pretty good jams and holds. Not very fun. 10b
P3 - Nice hand and finger crack to a block that looks like it's going to come off at some point. Up a slanting crack until you step into a corner. The step into the corner looks scary as you can't see where you are going to get gear. Commit to the easier than it looks move, step up and you can slot in a purple c4. The moves to the top are easy. 10b

Route is worth doing, but will feel a bit heady for mid 5.10 leaders.

Also, I only found one bolt on the last pitch (on the slab above all the harder movement). Route description should be updated to remove the "clip a bolt after stepping into the corner"). Jun 17, 2015
It should be noted, that the first bolt (after stepping left into the corner) is no more. There is a spot for a small cam in the corner, but not visible until you're in the corner. Jun 5, 2015
Hans
Squamish, BC
Hans   Squamish, BC
I found the first pitch to be hard and the chimney pitch to be easy. Jan 23, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Cool route, burly. Had to bail after the second pitch due to time, but looking forward to getting back and sealing the deal.

FWIW my partner and I both found the 2nd pitch chimney full-on, and harder than the first pitch. I tried to climb it straight in and didn't try many stemming or chimney moves, so this may have made it harder. Great fun though, and a bit of a novelty as chimneys seem so rare in Squish. Aug 20, 2014
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
Best way to climb this fun route (IMO) is to link pitch 1 &2. Works fine with a 60m and standard rack. Jun 20, 2014
Aaron Nash
North Bend, WA
  5.10a/b
Aaron Nash   North Bend, WA
  5.10a/b
Follows the old 5.8 A1 line called "Snot" in the McLane guidebook. Fun route that has a little bit of everything. Aug 11, 2013