Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Glen Payan, John Thompson, Jeff Thompson
Page Views: 1,760 total · 13/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A long, high-quality route on beautiful stone. It has some friction moves, some crack, some traversing on an intrusion/dyke, just about everything except an overhang.

Location

The far south end of the wall at Shannon Falls curves around to face more towards the south. Walk along the base of the cliff from the falls area until it curves up and around to a very nice clearing below a smooth face. The route up the cracks in the face is Poultry in Motion, the more rounded buttress on the left is Man of Leisure. The trail isn't heavily used, so it may take some false starts to get there.

Protection

Mostly bolts but a small selection of finger and hand sized nuts and cams is necessary. Descent by rappel (but note that the route is longer than 100 feet) or by walking around to the east then south.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b/c PG13
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b/c PG13
The trail is now VERY heavily used :) It's the descent for the uber-popular Skywalker. Find Skywalker, and keep heading up the trail past numerous hand lines. As you round the final corner of the buttress a big ledge heads out left to anchor bolts.

This was a fabulous route, but I was surprised to find a slightly heady section in the middle after the well protected bottom.

Towards the top when you transition into a hand crack the gear was not inspiring and the climbing - while not hard - was also not trivial. It was a bit scruffy from lack of travel, so that might had made the climbing slightly insecure. Perhaps a pink tricam (or bigger?) might have tamed the fiddy gear - but as it was I had an ok HB Offset (#3,4, or 5, not sure) and a marginal green camalot. I was happy when I plugged in a #1 above it!

After climbing the hand crack, I wasn't sure of where to go so I aimed for the bolt atop Poultry in Motion. The climbing is easy (5.6 slab), but expect LOTS of rope drag!!! Making it 5.6++++++++ :)

A fun route, and popularity will surely increase with the Skywalker traffic. Aug 13, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
There's a hilarious pic in the old (1999?) McLane guidebook of Mr. Payan's FA in a leisure suit. Sep 9, 2012
tsherry
Portland, OR
tsherry   Portland, OR
Mark, that picture is so good! Wish I had scanned it when I had that book. Mar 30, 2016
Drew Latta  
 
Use alpine draws for all the bolts and the rope drag is no problem-o!
Amazing pitch of climbing, very fun and technical. Aug 21, 2018
wayne wallace
Seattle
  5.10c PG13
wayne wallace   Seattle
  5.10c PG13
Heady route, and gear !
000 C3 may fit in the tiny pocket halfway up the route.(Not having one) I did a trapped nut that took 10 minutes to set up and 20 minutes for my partner to clean! Lol. A purple/green C4 offset would work in the flare after that. If thats not PG13 gear, I dont know what is? Sep 6, 2018