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Routes in Gobsmacking Wall

Hungry Wolf T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hunters Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Man of Leisure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Say Never T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Poultry in Motion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin McLane (FFA), 1984
Page Views: 1,788 total, 15/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

A spectacular and very sustained climb with great movement on face and crack. Can be done in one long pitch with good rope management.

P1. 5.10b Climb the initial crack onto a platform. Make slabby moves left to the base of a steep dihedral.

P2. 5.11b Climb the technical dihedral to the roof, traverse right towards a block making sure that your pro has long enough slings to avoid rope-drag. Layback up the very strenuous right-facing dihedral clipping three bolts along the way. Finally, power up the relentless corner crack.

Note that McLane's 2005 book has the route numbering mixed up with Hunter's Moon. Hungry wolf is number 332 on the topo and Hunter's Moon is 231.

Location

This is near the south end of the wall, before it curves to face south. As you are scrambling uphill towards the base of Man of Leisure, a side trail breaks up and left to head back north. A quick scramble takes you to a little platform below a wide crack.

Protection

Many small to medium nuts and finger to tight hand cams. A double set to hand size is advisable.

To descend, with double ropes you can rap the route or Man of Leisure, otherwise walk down east and then south.

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