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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall

Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chewbacca T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 22,029 total, 170/month
Shared By: BenCooper on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Very nice handjamming the entire way. One of the best cracks I have ever climbed. Pro is good, bring a 60m rope.

Location

The obvious crack to the right of 'local boys do good.' The approach is from Shannon Falls parking lot. Hike up the trail towards the falls until you see a large log that spans the width of the creek to your right. Cross the log and rock hop across to gain access to the steep trail that leads directly to the routes.

Protection

Rack: set of nuts, many cams from Camalot .5 to 2. Two bolt anchor at top.
Emil Briggs
  5.7
Emil Briggs  
  5.7
While this was an OK route I have to confess I thought it was a little boring. Pretty much the same move over and over again for a hundred feet. I know a lot of people love it and I'm not knocking their feelings but I like a little more variety. Jul 28, 2016
Ryan Lynne  
 
Best 5.7 crack in Squamish in my opinion. Jun 7, 2016
Not as good as Corner Flash Jul 16, 2015
agreed, 3-4 pieces is all thats needed for this ridiculously secure hand crack Nov 4, 2014
Sam Keller
  5.7
Sam Keller  
  5.7
I protected this route with 4 tricams and a hex. Made it super fun. I would call it the only way to climb Klahanie ;) Aug 31, 2014
David Dennis
High Sierra
  5.7
David Dennis   High Sierra
  5.7
What a beautiful, easy crack. Perfect to teach hands/tight hands. Jul 24, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.7
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.7
shoo....Klahanie Crack maybe too low angle for you, but 54 others have given it **** (4 stars), so it must be fairly fun and engaging. More than "meh." Jul 21, 2014
shoo  
As mentioned, thinner than it looks. .75s for most of it, but it'll take a variety of gear.

This might be the most overrated route in Squamish. It's just kinda meh. The feature is cool, but it's just not very much fun. Too low angle to be engaging. Apr 2, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.6
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.6
Hilariously secure climbing, you can just cruise on this thing. Thinner than it looks from the ground. You could place some #2 or #3 Camalots if you wanted in those pods, but I found if there's a pod at your face you might as well climb a bit higher so your foot's in it, and place from there. I've found a rack of 2 .5s, 2 .75s and 1 #1 Camalot is sufficient.

Also, if your rack is slim and your fear is high you should know that the back of the crack often accepts smaller cams, and you can definitely place big bomber nuts too if that's your thing. Jun 27, 2013
Shannon Falls, Klahanie crack area. There is a nice concentration of climbs close together.
I ,TRd a slab between Klahanie using K anchors and a bolt from Split Decision,
A new climb ?, or an old TR problem? I hope no one bolts it as it would be a bit cramped. Jun 17, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.7
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.7
Fun and easy, low angle with tons of placements. Great for beginner trad leaders to feel solid on. Apr 23, 2012
JSH

JSH    
Good luck not giggling your way up this crack ...! Aug 15, 2011
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
Approach (update): cross south on the new bridge (the one you took to get into the parking lot). Several paces beyond, there is a trail that leads up into the trees, next to a sign. Follow this. The trail will go up and up, and then descend to cross a minor drainage (footbridge), and then climb again. May 24, 2007